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MTX-75 Oil Change

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The Ford Mondeo hit our roads in 1993, and has consistently been a sales success. Now on its 4th incarnation, it remains a drivers favourite.
For more information, visit the Ford Mondeo forum on, the definitive resource site covering all Fords from the present day to the 1970's.

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Changing MTX-75 Transmission Oil

Required Toolings:

8mm Allen Key


The oil for MTX-75 is designed with fill-for-life which is 'supposed' no need to be changed. However if you are going to change the oil for any reason, here is the way to do it.

The oil spec for the gearbox is a bit confusing. For Mk1 the spec is ESD-M2C-186-A, on Mk2 and Mk3 the spec is WSD-M2C200-C.

Despite the difference in the spec, the US Ford has issued a service bulletin about the new specification oil available and the recommendation to use it. The new spec has a honey colour instead of being red. Here's the address:

I have personally switched to the new spec fluid and all i can say is that the shifting is miles more positive, although the half worn synchromesh was more obvious now coz of the slicker shifting.

Also since once the oil is changed it shouldn't need any attention for a few years at least I would recommend using the new spec oil from Ford - afterall the price difference isn't much when spreaded out, and the better shifting makes the extra few quid even more worthwhile!

Fluid Specification and Capacity

Oil Spec: WSD-M2C200-C

FINIS Code: 1045737 (1 litre) {at around £16 from ebay and £14 from dealer}


  • Mk1 - 2.6 litres
  • Mk2 - Pre 1999 2.7 litres
  • Mk2 - 1999 onwards - 1.9 litres
  • Mk3 - 1.9 litres (MTX-75)
  • Mk3 - 1.75 litres (MMT6)

Note: When buying the oil at Ford dealers make sure you get the right one. The parts desk person might give you the one they 'normally' use and is a different spec, which (might) isn't as good. If that's what happening insist on having '1045737'! The difference in appearance is rather significant, the 'normal' ones is red like all other gearbox oil, while that one is in golden colour much like engine oil!


Before the change you could take the car out for a spin first to thin out the oil. Even so the oil won't get too hot and with the location of the gearbox it's not too likely to go all over your face, unlike the engine oil change.

  1. Jack up the vechicle. As usual make sure the car is supported with axle stands for safety.
  2. There are two plugs on the gearbox. One in front, which can be seen looking down from the top of the engine (very obvious) {Fill Plug} and one at the back (slightly hidden among the strengthening ribs.) {Drain Plug}.
  3. Use the allen key to loosen the fill plug. (YES THE FILL PLUG! I know it sounds strange, but no it's not because of the air pressure relief to aid the oil flowing out, but to ensure that you CAN fill up the gearbox with oil afterwards; so you won't be stuck with a Mondeo with no gearbox oil!)
  4. Then loosen the drain plug. Slide a container underneath the drain plug, and undo the drain plug by hand. When the drain plug is undone the oil should start flowing out. I use latex gloves as your hand will be covered in oil when the plug comes out. Now take out the fill plug to aid the oil flow. (If you don't try to undo the fill plug as said in step 3 and find out that you can't undo it now, put that drain plug back in asap! Didn't I warn you so you moron!)
  5. Wait for at least half an hour for draining. Due to the awkward fluid capacity you could use some of the new fluid to 'flush' out the old one, but make sure you won't end up not having enough.
  6. Put the drain plug back in and now it's time to use your creativity. Under the hood there should be a bit of space on the left of the battery, which you can make some kind of funnel to feed the new oil in. Alternatively use a length of plastic pipe small enough to fit into the fill hole with a funnel at the top and fill from the top of the engine, which makes filling much more comfortable.
  7. When filled up the oil level should be around 0mm (level with hole) to 5mm below the fill plug hole. If unsure then keep pouring in until the oil starts overflowing (make sure you have got something to catch it underneath!) And for checking the car should be level. Too much fluid isn't good for the gearbox either.
  8. Afterwards tighten up the plugs to 15Nm. I don't have a allen key on socket so I just make it reasonably tight.
  9. Clean up, get back into the car and take it out for a spin! Afterwards have a quick check with the allen key again to make sure they are still tight!

  • Note for Mk3 with MMT6 Gearbox:

The drain plug and the fill plug are on the nearside (passenger side), situated on the differential housing among the flanges. It's close to the nearside driveshaft and both of them are pretty close to each other; the fill plug on the top and the drain plug at the bottom. Otherwise the procedure is identical to the MTX-75.

The following image, taken from the nearside wheel arch with wheel removed, shows the fill plug aft of the drive shaft and also the drain plug can be seen below the drive shaft. The drain plug is partially concealed by the sub frame.


You may find you have little room to work with the drain plug, as it can be close to the sub frame. A work around may be to cut an inch or so of off an 8mm allen key (angle grinder or patience required) place this in the drain plug and get a ring spanner over the other end.

The following picture is taken from the front, below the car whilst jacked up - you can clearly see the sub frame in close proximity to the drain plug.


  • Note for Mk3 drivers with MTX-75 Gearbox:

The drain plug is at the rear of the box, its axis is transverse, with the allen key top facing towards the drivers side of the car.