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Difference between revisions of "Windscreen Washer Problems"

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(New page: == Windscreen Washer Problems == This will likely affect every mk1 and mk2 Mondeo at one time or another. If you have poor fluid output through the washer jets, or none at all, and a pud...)
 
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This will likely affect every mk1 and mk2 Mondeo at one time or another.  If you have poor fluid output through the washer jets, or none at all, and a puddle underneath the front of the car by the drivers side wheel, the hose will have become fully or party detached from the pump.  It's a fiddly job, but not difficult - if you've big hands, you'll need a pair of long-nose pliers to fully connect the pipes again.  You'll also need the Torx bits to unbolt the undertray.
 
This will likely affect every mk1 and mk2 Mondeo at one time or another.  If you have poor fluid output through the washer jets, or none at all, and a puddle underneath the front of the car by the drivers side wheel, the hose will have become fully or party detached from the pump.  It's a fiddly job, but not difficult - if you've big hands, you'll need a pair of long-nose pliers to fully connect the pipes again.  You'll also need the Torx bits to unbolt the undertray.
  
Front bumper image
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[[Image:front_of_car_800.jpg]]
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Firstly, Lie on the ground next with your head in front of the front drivers-side wheel.  At the front of the wheelarch are two Torx bolts securing the undertray to the body.  These need removing, and the undertray pushed to one side.  Don't bend it too far, or it'll crack...
 
Firstly, Lie on the ground next with your head in front of the front drivers-side wheel.  At the front of the wheelarch are two Torx bolts securing the undertray to the body.  These need removing, and the undertray pushed to one side.  Don't bend it too far, or it'll crack...
  
Bolts image
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[[Image:undertray_bolts_800.jpg]]
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With that out of the way, you'll see the pump.
 
With that out of the way, you'll see the pump.
  
Pump image
 
  
On each outlet is a flexible piece of rubber piping with a 90-degree bend pre-formed.  At the other end of this flexible piping, there should be a rigid plastic hose fully inserted.  When the pipes are frozen, but the pump is trying to push fluid out, it ends up pushing the rigid section out of the flexible section.  If fully pushed out, you'll get nothing to the windscreen.  If slightly pushed out, you'll have a reduced flow from the jets, and soapy water landing on the undertray, sliding off when the vehicle moves.
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[[Image:washer_pump_800.jpg]]
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There are two outlets - one for the front windscreen, and one for the rear window.  On each outlet is a flexible piece of rubber piping with a 90-degree bend pre-formed.  At the other end of this flexible piping, there should be a rigid plastic hose fully inserted.  When the pipes are frozen, but the pump is trying to push fluid out, it ends up pushing the rigid section out of the flexible section.  If fully pushed out, you'll get nothing from the jets.  If slightly pushed out, you'll have a reduced flow from the jets, and soapy water landing on the undertray, sliding off when the vehicle moves.
  
 
I found it easiest to remove the flexible pipe from the pump.  Be prepared for gravity to help the water trickle out - in my opinion it's best to allow the tank to empty rather then try fumbling around with water trickling down your arms.  With the flexible section to one side, slide your hand up alongside the pump, and feel for the rigid hose.  Once you have it, use your long-nose pliers - or beautiful and feminine lady-hands - to hold the rigid pipe in place.  Slide the flexible section firmly back onto it.  Keeping the long-nose pliers on the rigid section, gently use downward force to enable the flexible section to mate with the pump, as pulling on the flexible section alone may disturb the seal between the two hoses, making the whole effort pointless.
 
I found it easiest to remove the flexible pipe from the pump.  Be prepared for gravity to help the water trickle out - in my opinion it's best to allow the tank to empty rather then try fumbling around with water trickling down your arms.  With the flexible section to one side, slide your hand up alongside the pump, and feel for the rigid hose.  Once you have it, use your long-nose pliers - or beautiful and feminine lady-hands - to hold the rigid pipe in place.  Slide the flexible section firmly back onto it.  Keeping the long-nose pliers on the rigid section, gently use downward force to enable the flexible section to mate with the pump, as pulling on the flexible section alone may disturb the seal between the two hoses, making the whole effort pointless.

Revision as of 17:53, 9 June 2009

Windscreen Washer Problems

This will likely affect every mk1 and mk2 Mondeo at one time or another. If you have poor fluid output through the washer jets, or none at all, and a puddle underneath the front of the car by the drivers side wheel, the hose will have become fully or party detached from the pump. It's a fiddly job, but not difficult - if you've big hands, you'll need a pair of long-nose pliers to fully connect the pipes again. You'll also need the Torx bits to unbolt the undertray.


Front of car 800.jpg


Firstly, Lie on the ground next with your head in front of the front drivers-side wheel. At the front of the wheelarch are two Torx bolts securing the undertray to the body. These need removing, and the undertray pushed to one side. Don't bend it too far, or it'll crack...


Undertray bolts 800.jpg


With that out of the way, you'll see the pump.


Washer pump 800.jpg


There are two outlets - one for the front windscreen, and one for the rear window. On each outlet is a flexible piece of rubber piping with a 90-degree bend pre-formed. At the other end of this flexible piping, there should be a rigid plastic hose fully inserted. When the pipes are frozen, but the pump is trying to push fluid out, it ends up pushing the rigid section out of the flexible section. If fully pushed out, you'll get nothing from the jets. If slightly pushed out, you'll have a reduced flow from the jets, and soapy water landing on the undertray, sliding off when the vehicle moves.

I found it easiest to remove the flexible pipe from the pump. Be prepared for gravity to help the water trickle out - in my opinion it's best to allow the tank to empty rather then try fumbling around with water trickling down your arms. With the flexible section to one side, slide your hand up alongside the pump, and feel for the rigid hose. Once you have it, use your long-nose pliers - or beautiful and feminine lady-hands - to hold the rigid pipe in place. Slide the flexible section firmly back onto it. Keeping the long-nose pliers on the rigid section, gently use downward force to enable the flexible section to mate with the pump, as pulling on the flexible section alone may disturb the seal between the two hoses, making the whole effort pointless.

I'm going to go against the grain here, rightly or wrongly, but with good intentions. I'd only offer advice if I were happy doing it on my own car - and I wasn't. It is commonly advised to use a cable-tie to secure the rigid and flexible sections of piping, helping prevent future occurrence of this fault. Having seen the washer reservoir, and the location of the pump, if it fails then it's not going to come out without removing the bumper and dropping the washer reservoir. Because of this, I'd sooner have the hose blow off than be more securely fitted and end up burning out the pump. But that's just me. It may blow off the flexible hosing from the pump instead, but given how many blow the other end off, I'm not confident that the seal between the flexible piping and the pump outlet is sufficiently slippery to be sure of this, so I'll be keeping mine without the cable ties - personally. I've not heard of a pump burning out after the use of cable ties, so there may be absolutely no problem is using them.


Links to bigger images(2592x1944):-


Submitted be Rich. Captain of the useless.