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Difference between revisions of "Waterpump belt (TDDi) change"
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| + | {{note|'''The Ford Mondeo hit our roads in 1993, and has consistently been a sales success. Now on its 4th incarnation, it remains a drivers favourite.'''<br> | ||
| + | '''For more information, visit the [http://www.talkford.com/forum/596-mondeo/ Ford Mondeo] forum on [http://www.talkford.com TalkFord.com], the definitive resource site covering all Fords from the present day to the 1970's.'''}} | ||
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| + | |image = [[File:Fordwiki infobox.png]] | ||
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| + | |caption = Overview Guide | ||
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| + | |label1 = Ford Model: | ||
| + | |data1 = '''Mondeo''' | ||
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| + | |label2 = Petrol/Diesel: | ||
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| + | |label3 = Estimated Cost: | ||
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| + | |label5 = How long does this take? | ||
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== TDDI Waterpump Belt Change == | == TDDI Waterpump Belt Change == | ||
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Final suggestion - keep a 6mm socket & bits handy for a few days in case I'm wrong about the torque on the hose clips. :) | Final suggestion - keep a 6mm socket & bits handy for a few days in case I'm wrong about the torque on the hose clips. :) | ||
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[[Category:Mondeo_Mk3]] | [[Category:Mondeo_Mk3]] | ||
Revision as of 23:40, 20 February 2011
For more information, visit the Ford Mondeo forum on TalkFord.com, the definitive resource site covering all Fords from the present day to the 1970's.
 Overview Guide | |
| Ford Model: | Mondeo |
|---|---|
| Petrol/Diesel: | ???? |
| Estimated Cost: | ???? |
| Difficulty? | ???? |
| How long does this take? | ???? |
TDDI Waterpump Belt Change
If your car has an engine cover, check the areas around the oil filler cap & dipstick aren’t full of grit (brush/hoover/wipe if they are), undo the oil filler cap & pull out the dipstick & whip the cover off. Refit the dipstick & oil filler cap, and remove the battery box cover to improve access – tie a big of rag or similar around the battery positive terminal to prevent a nasty short;
Unclip the hose that runs along the top/front of the head from the clips (4 of them) & tie it back (e.g. round the oil filler hole);
Undo the two hose clips (use a 6mm spanner) that hold the inlet manifold to metal pipe rubber elbow on, & remove the elbow. Mine was filthy with oil & soot on the inside, don't be shocked if yours is too;
There are two bolts (use a 10mm spanner) that hold the metal turbo pipe onto a bracket on the side of the engine, you'll need undo those to let you get the belt off;
On the top of the tensioner, you'll see a 1/4" square hole - use a socket ratchet to rotate the tensioner clockwise. If you haven't got a 1/4" ratchet, get one because it makes it very easy - you can't do it just by tugging on it;
With the tension off the belt, you can ping the belt off the cam pulley, then de-tension again to get the belt between the tensioner wheel & the inside of the metal turbo pipe bracket, then winkle the belt out between the outside of the bracket & the pipe (the 10mm bolts you removed earlier).
To fit the new belt (FINIS code 1120199), loosen the tensioner again, & _carefully_ move the belt through the gap, pass the other side through the turbo pipe/bracket gap, fit one end on the water pump pulley, then de-tension again to fit over the cam pulley;
Check the belt is aligned properly, then refit the 10mm bolts. This may be difficult – I found the metal pipe & bracket wouldn't line up without someone else leaning on the pipe, tighten as much as you can one handed on a regular spanner;
Refit the rubber inlet hose & tighten the hose clips - I just did them up as tight as I could with a 6mm socket on a 3/8ths extension bar, one-handed screwdriver style.
Untie the front coolant return hose & refit to the clips, check the front inlet manifold hose clip isn’t in a position where the coolant hose will rub on it.
Refit the battery cover Start the engine & check alignment again. Refit the engine cover, if you have one.
Final suggestion - keep a 6mm socket & bits handy for a few days in case I'm wrong about the torque on the hose clips. :)
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