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Difference between revisions of "Washer Pump Renewal"

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Latest revision as of 16:05, 22 April 2011

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Mk3 Washer Pump Renewal

Method

Get the car up on ramps and remove the front undertray (there are about 8 small torx screws), you will see the bottom of the tank and the pump sits in a rubber bung Disconnect the electrics and hoses and pull the pump out

Fitting is obviously a reversal of that but make sure you get the hoses on the right connections.

As for the part, I got mine from a local motor factor for £13, ford want £50, the only difference is the pattern part has the outlets coming out horizontally instead of vertically. There is enough slack in the hoses though.

A good little tip is to put some tiny ty-raps on the hoses to stop them getting blown off the pump.

Submitted by paulyoung666

Additional Information / Notes

You will need:

These are codes for Halfords parts not Ford parts

HWP19? - washer pump, which is the side outlet version, as sold on ebay. HWP5? - 90° Connector - get two of these. HWP11? - washer tubing

Be aware that the pumps from the pre and post facelift cars are different, not by much, but enogh to confuse someone who is looking for a specific pump and pipe orientation.

I will post up pictures of the 2 different units so as to differentiate pre and post facelift pumps.

If you also have a headlight washer pump in the way then access to the main screen pumps may be compromised due to the close proximity of both pumps and the tendancy for the headlight washer pipework to work itself loose if disturbed and not connect correctly afterwards. In which case, do not go to for to buy a new one for £20 on back order, simply replace it with a suitable peice of plastic tubing with some jubilee clips attached to either end of the pipework.

This tubing is readily available in plumbing shops as it is the same sort that you use in some domestic fridge applications for the water chiller/ice cube dispenser feed.

Method

Basically, if you fit 1-2" lengths of the tubing to the outlets of the new pump and then the 90° elbows, you can get the connections pointing the same way as the original pump. This means that you don't put any strain on the pipe work in the car, which seems like a good idea given that the feed to the tailgate is known for disconnecting above the headlining.

It is just about possible to do this job with the car on the ground and the radiator undertray removed. It would have been much easier with the front of the car up on proper axle stands or ramps, but I don't own either of those things. Before you disconnect ANYTHING, use the remains of the length of tube you bought to siphon out as much of the screenwash from the bottle as you can - saves a wet arm later

The original Ford pump has a white connector and adaptor piece at the front, and black parts at the back. When you fit the new Halfords pump you need to SWAP THESE TWO PIPES over, or else your tailgate will be squirted when the windscreen wipers are running! You will need to remove the white and black adaptor pieces from the ends of the pipes, they are too large for the new connectors. Obviously keep them in case you fit an original Ford pump again later.