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Difference between revisions of "Thermostat replacement"

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Mark 3 Ford Mondeo Thermostat Change (1.8 or 2.0L Petrol Duratec HE)
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{{note|'''The Ford Mondeo hit our roads in 1993, and has consistently been a sales success. Now on its 4th incarnation, it remains a drivers favourite.'''<br>
 +
'''For more information, visit the [http://www.talkford.com/forum/596-mondeo/ Ford Mondeo] forum on [http://www.talkford.com TalkFord.com], the definitive resource site covering all Fords from the present day to the 1970's.'''}}
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{{Infobox
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|name          = Infobox Template
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|bodystyle      = float:right; valign:top;
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|image          = [[File:Fordwiki infobox.png]]
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|imagestyle  =
 +
|caption        = Overview Guide
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|captionstyle =
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|headerstyle  = background:#ccf;
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|labelstyle  = background:#ddf;
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|datastyle      = text-align:right;
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|header1 =
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|label1  = Ford Model:
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|data1  = '''Mondeo MK3'''
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|header2 =
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|label2  = Petrol/Diesel:
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|data2  = '''Petrol'''
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|header3 =
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|label3  = Estimated Cost:
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|data3  = '''30-90 GBP'''
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|header4 =
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|label4  = Difficulty?
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|data4  = '''rather easy'''
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|label5  = How long does this take?
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|data5  = '''2-3 hours'''
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}}
  
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Symptom:  car takes more than a few minutes to produce hot air on a cold winter's day, and even then, it's not as hot as it should be. You can also use the [[Instrument Cluster Self-Diagnostic Mode|cluster diagnosis tools]] to view your cylinder head temperature, which should reach 90-105&deg;C after a few minutes driving, then stay there.
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Applies to all Mk3 Mondeo with 1.8 or 2.0L petrol Duratec HE engines. Check [[Talk:Thermostat_replacement|Discussion]] for some additional info.
  
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Thermostats always fail in the open position.  In the old days it cost 5 quid and took 5 minutes to change.  On the Mk3 it has fancy electronics, costs 90 quid and the garage will quote you at least 60 quid to fit it.  It's in a terrible location behind the power steering pump.
+
Symptom: car takes more than a few minutes to produce hot air on a cold winter's day, and even then, it's not as hot as it should be. You can also use the [[Instrument Cluster Self-Diagnostic Mode|cluster diagnosis tools]] to view your cylinder head temperature, which should reach 90-105&deg;C after a few minutes driving, then stay there.
  
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It took me hours to work out how to do it.  However, once you know how,  you can change it in one hour and save yourself a fortune, although it is by no means easy.  You will need the following tools.  Don't attempt it without these.
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Thermostats normally fail in the open position.  In the old days it cost 5 quid and took 5 minutes to change. Although a thermostat is a simple mechanical device, on the Mk3 a Ford replacement may cost 90 quid and the garage will quote you at least 60 quid to fit it. A third party version is much cheaper but a problem with these is sometimes that the peripheral rubber sealing ring is not thick enough to give a good seal, so check this and use the ring from the old one if suitable.
  
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1: An angled pair of GrooveLock Pliers/grips for removing the rubber hose clips.
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It's in a terrible location behind the power steering pump. This is a conceptually pretty simple procedure to do, it's just in a very tight place you have to get to which takes time and skin off your hands (glowes might come in handy!). The hardest bit is removing the hose - if that goes OK, you should have no problems. Otherwise, put it all back together and visit your local friendly mechanic with your parts.
  
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2: A miniature ratchet set such as the Stanley 18 Piece Micro Tough 1/4" Ratchet Set.  Google this item so that you know what it looks like.  It costs about 20 quid and you absolutely must have the universal joint.
 
  
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3: A telescopic magnetic pick up tool.  I got mine as part of one of those cheap tool kits you pick up at motorway service stations.  You will need it if you drop one of the bolts or your socket down into an inaccessible place.  Believe me, this is quite likely.
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Let's get started - make sure you have all the right parts, these are all the tools needed:
  
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Method:
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# New Thermostat (£12-15 from ebay etc., a lot more  from Ford)
 +
# Pliers
 +
# Magnetic tool (for those dropped screws...)
 +
# Small ratchet set (only need 10mm/8mm bits)
 +
# 4 l bottle of engine coolant/antifreeze
  
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Open bonnet.
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You may need a torch too, even in good daylight.
  
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Remove the plastic grille in which the key hole is located.
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[[File:Mk3ts1.jpg]]
  
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Unplug the headlamp unit at the back.
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Now out to the car, open up the bonnet and remove the front grill, there are two small plastic clips either end holding it in place, twist these and they will pop out, the whole grill unit will then pop off, just don't force it or you might snap any of the small plastics holding it in place.
  
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Pull up a retaining pin at either side of the headlamp to free the unit.
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[[File:Mk3ts2.jpg]]
  
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Remove the headlamp unit.
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[[File:Mk3ts3.jpg]]
  
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Use the pliers to squeeze the large hose clip and work it off the end of the hose.  Except for putting it back on you have now completed the hardest part of the job. If you cannot complete this step, give up and book it into a garage.
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Now pop out the driver's side headlamp, in the pic below are two small metal posts which just pull upwards to release the whole headlight, Unplug the electronic connector at the back and the headlight will wiggle free.
  
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Remove the large hose.  This releases a couple of litres of coolant.
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[[File:Mk3ts4.jpg]]
  
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Now there are three bolts holding the thermostat to the engine block.
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Make sure you unplug the connector before you start pulling the headlight out.
  
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Use an 8 mm socket on the long extension to remove the top right bolt.  You can just see it looking down a crack from directly above.
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[[File:Mk3ts5.jpg]]
  
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Use the socket on the universal joint on the long extension to remove the bottom right bolt.  You will have to feel for this one.
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Now the headlight is out we have the essential access route to the thermostat.
  
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Use a 10 mm socket to remove the nut that holds the power steering pump tube bracket to the engine block.  Rotate the bracket a few degrees to the left to free up the access rout (very little movement needed).
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[[File:Mk3ts6.jpg]]
  
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Use an 8 mm socket on the long extension to remove the top left bolt and remove thermostat. You will be able to see this bolt through the headlamp hole through which you have been working.  This releases more coolant.
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Below is the view that should greet you when you peer though the empty headlight socket. First remove the large coolant pipe using pliers on the clip. This is likely to be hard work and may take a few goes to move but keep at it and it should eventually move!
  
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Remove the small hose using the pliers.
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[[File:Mk3ts7.jpg]]
  
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Remove the electrical connection to the thermostat by pressing down on top and pulling it off.
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And now with the large hose removed...
  
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Throw the old thermostat over your shoulder.
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[[File:Mk3ts8.jpg]]
  
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Clean any baked on rubber gasket from the mounting face on the engine block. I found my thumb nail was most effective.
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You will lose quite a bit of coolant when the big pipe is removed. Next undo the 3 nuts that hold the thermostat in place (blue lines in pic). These are all quite hard to get to, you will lose skin, blood and possibly a nail. Be careful not to drop the nuts, or the magnetic tool may have to come out...
  
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The new thermostat is fitted by reversing these steps with one exception.  You do not need to reconnect the electrical connector until after the thermostat is fitted.  It pushes on very easy because you don't have to release it by pushing down on top.
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You may find it easier to undo the nut holding the power steering hose bracket: this will give you a bit more room.
  
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The important thing to note when refitting the thermostat is that you connect the small hose first.  Then bolt the unit onto the engine.  Make the electrical connection.  Connect the big hose.  The most difficult bit is getting the big hose clip back on.  I held the clip open using the angled pliers and pushed on the opposite side with the edge of a ring spanner.
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When all 3 nuts are out you should be able to move the thermostat into an easier position to remove the electrical connector and smaller hose.
  
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If you follow these instructions you will complete the job in an hour, if you know some mechanics - even quicker if you have small hands.
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Now everything is removed you can take out the thermostat. Below is a picture of my faulty one, you can see that one of the plastic arms had snapped off causing it to stay in only one position.
  
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If you drop a bolt and you do not have the telescopic magnet tool you will have to turn the car upside down and give it a shake.
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[[File:Mk3ts9.jpg]]
  
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If, after reading all this, you feel uncomfortable with the job, you can either get your dealer to do it, or buy the part separately and get an independent garage to fit it. Try to find one that has done the job recently: if they suggest it'll take less than an hour or two, they probably don't understand the difficulty of the job.
 
  
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[[Category:Mk3]]
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Both plastic arms were snapped off here:
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[[Category:Petrol]]
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 +
[[File:mk3ts10.jpg]]
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 +
 
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Here's an image of the new thermostat for comparison (no broken arms):
 +
 
 +
[[File:mk3ts11.jpg]]
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 +
Now you can install your new thermostat!  You should know how to do it now: place the small hose on first, then screw in the three bolts (this may take a while as it is so fiddly) I found that putting a small bit of blu-tac on the end of the ratchet tool kept the nut in place while I lined it up with the hole. Next clip on the electrical connector and finally spend a while swearing at the large coolant pipe as you try and get the clip back on. If it's too hard you could always bin the fiddly clip and put a jubilee clip on instead.
 +
 
 +
Nearly done, the thermostat is now fitted but we have lost a fair bit of coolant - this needs to be topped up but has to be done with engine running and filler cap off. (There will be air locks in the system which need time to work round the system and reach the filler tank) Run the engine for about 10 mins revving to about 2500 rpm and checking the coolant level every min or so, you will probably hear lots of gurguling sounds as the air works it's way out. keep doing this until the coolant level remains constant and no longer drops.
 +
 
 +
Done, you should now have a warm car that knows what temperature it's running at and is not wasting fuel!
 +
 
 +
 
 +
 
 +
[[Category:Mondeo_Mk3]]

Latest revision as of 13:48, 6 November 2013

The Ford Mondeo hit our roads in 1993, and has consistently been a sales success. Now on its 4th incarnation, it remains a drivers favourite.
For more information, visit the Ford Mondeo forum on TalkFord.com, the definitive resource site covering all Fords from the present day to the 1970's.
Fordwiki infobox.png
Overview Guide
Ford Model: Mondeo MK3
Petrol/Diesel: Petrol
Estimated Cost: 30-90 GBP
Difficulty? rather easy
How long does this take? 2-3 hours
v • d • e

Applies to all Mk3 Mondeo with 1.8 or 2.0L petrol Duratec HE engines. Check Discussion for some additional info.

Symptom: car takes more than a few minutes to produce hot air on a cold winter's day, and even then, it's not as hot as it should be. You can also use the cluster diagnosis tools to view your cylinder head temperature, which should reach 90-105°C after a few minutes driving, then stay there.

Thermostats normally fail in the open position. In the old days it cost 5 quid and took 5 minutes to change. Although a thermostat is a simple mechanical device, on the Mk3 a Ford replacement may cost 90 quid and the garage will quote you at least 60 quid to fit it. A third party version is much cheaper but a problem with these is sometimes that the peripheral rubber sealing ring is not thick enough to give a good seal, so check this and use the ring from the old one if suitable.

It's in a terrible location behind the power steering pump. This is a conceptually pretty simple procedure to do, it's just in a very tight place you have to get to which takes time and skin off your hands (glowes might come in handy!). The hardest bit is removing the hose - if that goes OK, you should have no problems. Otherwise, put it all back together and visit your local friendly mechanic with your parts.


Let's get started - make sure you have all the right parts, these are all the tools needed:

  1. New Thermostat (£12-15 from ebay etc., a lot more from Ford)
  2. Pliers
  3. Magnetic tool (for those dropped screws...)
  4. Small ratchet set (only need 10mm/8mm bits)
  5. 4 l bottle of engine coolant/antifreeze

You may need a torch too, even in good daylight.

Mk3ts1.jpg

Now out to the car, open up the bonnet and remove the front grill, there are two small plastic clips either end holding it in place, twist these and they will pop out, the whole grill unit will then pop off, just don't force it or you might snap any of the small plastics holding it in place.

Mk3ts2.jpg

Mk3ts3.jpg

Now pop out the driver's side headlamp, in the pic below are two small metal posts which just pull upwards to release the whole headlight, Unplug the electronic connector at the back and the headlight will wiggle free.

Mk3ts4.jpg

Make sure you unplug the connector before you start pulling the headlight out.

Mk3ts5.jpg

Now the headlight is out we have the essential access route to the thermostat.

Mk3ts6.jpg

Below is the view that should greet you when you peer though the empty headlight socket. First remove the large coolant pipe using pliers on the clip. This is likely to be hard work and may take a few goes to move but keep at it and it should eventually move!

Mk3ts7.jpg

And now with the large hose removed...

Mk3ts8.jpg

You will lose quite a bit of coolant when the big pipe is removed. Next undo the 3 nuts that hold the thermostat in place (blue lines in pic). These are all quite hard to get to, you will lose skin, blood and possibly a nail. Be careful not to drop the nuts, or the magnetic tool may have to come out...

You may find it easier to undo the nut holding the power steering hose bracket: this will give you a bit more room.

When all 3 nuts are out you should be able to move the thermostat into an easier position to remove the electrical connector and smaller hose.

Now everything is removed you can take out the thermostat. Below is a picture of my faulty one, you can see that one of the plastic arms had snapped off causing it to stay in only one position.

Mk3ts9.jpg


Both plastic arms were snapped off here:

Mk3ts10.jpg


Here's an image of the new thermostat for comparison (no broken arms):

Mk3ts11.jpg

Now you can install your new thermostat! You should know how to do it now: place the small hose on first, then screw in the three bolts (this may take a while as it is so fiddly) I found that putting a small bit of blu-tac on the end of the ratchet tool kept the nut in place while I lined it up with the hole. Next clip on the electrical connector and finally spend a while swearing at the large coolant pipe as you try and get the clip back on. If it's too hard you could always bin the fiddly clip and put a jubilee clip on instead.

Nearly done, the thermostat is now fitted but we have lost a fair bit of coolant - this needs to be topped up but has to be done with engine running and filler cap off. (There will be air locks in the system which need time to work round the system and reach the filler tank) Run the engine for about 10 mins revving to about 2500 rpm and checking the coolant level every min or so, you will probably hear lots of gurguling sounds as the air works it's way out. keep doing this until the coolant level remains constant and no longer drops.

Done, you should now have a warm car that knows what temperature it's running at and is not wasting fuel!

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