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Difference between revisions of "Thermostat replacement"

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Thermostats always fail in the open position.  In the old days it cost 5 quid and took 5 minutes to change.  On the Mk3 it has fancy electronics, costs 90 quid and the garage will quote you at least 60 quid to fit it.  It's in a terrible location behind the power steering pump.
 
Thermostats always fail in the open position.  In the old days it cost 5 quid and took 5 minutes to change.  On the Mk3 it has fancy electronics, costs 90 quid and the garage will quote you at least 60 quid to fit it.  It's in a terrible location behind the power steering pump.
  
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It took me hours to work out how to do it.  However, once you know how,  you can change it in one hour and save yourself a fortune, although it is by no means easy.  You will need the following tools.  Don't attempt it without these.
+
Fuel economy was also bad as car was constantly revving at 1,200rpm as it though engine was cold, hense using more fuel.
  
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1: An angled pair of GrooveLock Pliers/grips for removing the rubber hose clips.
+
BTW, to confirm it's a 2001  1.8 Mondeo, job took me about 1 hour.
  
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2: A miniature ratchet set such as the Stanley 18 Piece Micro Tough 1/4" Ratchet Set.  Google this item so that you know what it looks like.  It costs about 20 quid and you absolutely must have the universal joint.
+
So I fitted a new thermostat and took some pics to post a little how-to.
  
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3: A telescopic magnetic pick up tool.  I got mine as part of one of those cheap tool kits you pick up at motorway service stations.  You will need it if you drop one of the bolts or your socket down into an inaccessible place. Believe me, this is quite likely.
+
I'm not that great with working on engines but this is a pretty simple procedure to do, it's just a very tight place you have to get to which takes the time and skin off your hands.
 +
If you can change a set of break pads like myself then I think you will have no problem with this job.
  
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Method:
+
Let's get started - make sure you have all the right parts, these are all the tools I needed -
  
−
Open bonnet.
+
1 - New Thermostat in housing (£75 from ebay)
 +
2 - plyers
 +
3 - magnetic tool (for those dropped screws...)
 +
4 - small ratched set (only need 10mm/8mm bits)
 +
5 - 4l bottle of engine coolant/antifreeze
  
−
Remove the plastic grille in which the key hole is located.
+
You may need a torch too, even in good daylight.
  
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Unplug the headlamp unit at the back.
+
[img]http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/3622/66374501.jpg[/img]
  
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Pull up a retaining pin at either side of the headlamp to free the unit.
+
Now out to the car, open up the bonnet and remove the front grill, there are two small plastic clips either end holding it in place, twist these and pop then off, the whole unit will then pop off, just don't force it so you don;t snap any of the small platics holding it in place.
  
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Remove the headlamp unit.
+
[img]http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/9715/32478348.jpg[/img]
  
−
Use the pliers to squeeze the large hose clip and work it off the end of the hose. Except for putting it back on you have now completed the hardest part of the job. If you cannot complete this step, give up and book it into a garage.
+
[img]http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/2694/13368019.jpg[/img]
  
−
Remove the large hose.  This releases a couple of litres of coolant.
+
Now pop out the drivers side headlamp, I was suprised how easy this was, in the pic below are two small metal posts, these just pull upwards to release the whole headlight, just unplug the electronic connector at the back and the headlight will wiggle free.
  
−
Now there are three bolts holding the thermostat to the engine block.
+
[img]http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/9095/18707292.jpg[/img]
  
−
Use an 8 mm socket on the long extension to remove the top right bolt.  You can just see it looking down a crack from directly above.
+
Make sure you unplug the connector before you start pulling the headlight out
  
−
Use the socket on the universal joint on the long extension to remove the bottom right bolt. You will have to feel for this one.
+
[img]http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/7853/70501085.jpg[/img]
  
−
Use a 10 mm socket to remove the nut that holds the power steering pump tube bracket to the engine block.  Rotate the bracket a few degrees to the left to free up the access rout (very little movement needed).
+
Now the headlight is out we have the essential access route to the Thermostat.
  
−
Use an 8 mm socket on the long extension to remove the top left bolt and remove thermostat. You will be able to see this bolt through the headlamp hole through which you have been working. This releases more coolant.
+
[img]http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/5529/47856883.jpg[/img]
  
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Remove the small hose using the pliers.
+
Below is the view that should greet you when you peer though the empty headlight socket. First remove the large coolant pipe, I found it best to use plyers on the clip, it realy is horrible and will take a few goes to move but keep at it and it will eventually move, I promise!
  
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Remove the electrical connection to the thermostat by pressing down on top and pulling it off.
+
[img]http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/483/38477892.jpg[/img]
  
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Throw the old thermostat over your shoulder.
+
And now with the large hose removed...
  
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Clean any baked on rubber gasket from the mounting face on the engine block. I found my thumb nail was most effective.
+
[img]http://img816.imageshack.us/img816/6537/56545186.jpg[/img]
  
−
The new thermostat is fitted by reversing these steps with one exception. You do not need to reconnect the electrical connector until after the thermostat is fitted.  It pushes on very easy because you don't have to release it by pushing down on top.
+
You will lose quite a bit of coolant when the big pipe is removed. Next undo the 3 nuts that hold the Thermostat in place (Blue lines in pic) these are all quite hard to get to, you will loose skin, blood and possibly a nail. Be careful not to drop the nuts, or the magentic tool may have to some out.....
 +
You may find it easier to undo the nut holding the power steering hose bracket, this will give you a bit mote room.
 +
When all 3 nuts are out you should be able to move the Thermostat into an easier position to remove the electrical connector and smaller hose.
  
−
The important thing to note when refitting the thermostat is that you connect the small hose first.  Then bolt the unit onto the engine.  Make the electrical connection.  Connect the big hose.  The most difficult bit is getting the big hose clip back on.  I held the clip open using the angled pliers and pushed on the opposite side with the edge of a ring spanner.
+
Now everything is removed you can take out the Thermostat, below is a picture of my faulty one, you can see that one of the plastic arms has snapped off causing it to stay in only one position.
  
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If you follow these instructions you will complete the job in an hour, or even quicker if your used to working on cars or have small hands.
+
[img]http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/2994/88521163.jpg[/img]
  
−
If you drop a bolt and you do not have the telescopic magnet tool you will have to turn the car upside down and give it a shake.
+
Now you can install your new thermostat !  you should know how to do it now, I would place the small hose on first, then screw in the three bolts (this may take a while as it is so fiddly) then clip on the electrical connector and finnaly spend a while swearing at the large coolant pipe as you try and get the clip back on. If it's too hard you could always put a jubilee clip on.
  
−
If, after reading all this, you feel uncomfortable with the job, you can either get your dealer to do it, or buy the part separately and get an independent garage to fit it. Try to find one that has done the job recently: if they suggest it'll take less than an hour or two, they probably don't understand the difficulty of the job.
+
Nearly done, the thermostat is now fitted but we have lost a fair bit of coolant - this need to be topped up but with engine running and filler cap off as there will be air locks in the system which need time to reach the filler tank. Run the engine for about 10 mins revving to about 2500 rpm and checking the coolant level every min or so, keep doing this until the level remains constant and no longer drops.
  
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[[Category:Mondeo_Mk3]]
+
Done, you should now have a warm car that knows what temperature it's running at and is not wasting fuel!
−
[[Category:Mondeo_Petrol]]
+

Revision as of 02:54, 3 December 2010

Mark 3 Ford Mondeo Thermostat Change (1.8 or 2.0L Petrol Duratec HE)

Symptom: car takes more than a few minutes to produce hot air on a cold winter's day, and even then, it's not as hot as it should be. You can also use the cluster diagnosis tools to view your cylinder head temperature, which should reach 90-105°C after a few minutes driving, then stay there.

Thermostats always fail in the open position. In the old days it cost 5 quid and took 5 minutes to change. On the Mk3 it has fancy electronics, costs 90 quid and the garage will quote you at least 60 quid to fit it. It's in a terrible location behind the power steering pump.

Fuel economy was also bad as car was constantly revving at 1,200rpm as it though engine was cold, hense using more fuel.

BTW, to confirm it's a 2001 1.8 Mondeo, job took me about 1 hour.

So I fitted a new thermostat and took some pics to post a little how-to.

I'm not that great with working on engines but this is a pretty simple procedure to do, it's just a very tight place you have to get to which takes the time and skin off your hands. If you can change a set of break pads like myself then I think you will have no problem with this job.

Let's get started - make sure you have all the right parts, these are all the tools I needed -

1 - New Thermostat in housing (£75 from ebay) 2 - plyers 3 - magnetic tool (for those dropped screws...) 4 - small ratched set (only need 10mm/8mm bits) 5 - 4l bottle of engine coolant/antifreeze

You may need a torch too, even in good daylight.

[img]http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/3622/66374501.jpg[/img]

Now out to the car, open up the bonnet and remove the front grill, there are two small plastic clips either end holding it in place, twist these and pop then off, the whole unit will then pop off, just don't force it so you don;t snap any of the small platics holding it in place.

[img]http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/9715/32478348.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/2694/13368019.jpg[/img]

Now pop out the drivers side headlamp, I was suprised how easy this was, in the pic below are two small metal posts, these just pull upwards to release the whole headlight, just unplug the electronic connector at the back and the headlight will wiggle free.

[img]http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/9095/18707292.jpg[/img]

Make sure you unplug the connector before you start pulling the headlight out

[img]http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/7853/70501085.jpg[/img]

Now the headlight is out we have the essential access route to the Thermostat.

[img]http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/5529/47856883.jpg[/img]

Below is the view that should greet you when you peer though the empty headlight socket. First remove the large coolant pipe, I found it best to use plyers on the clip, it realy is horrible and will take a few goes to move but keep at it and it will eventually move, I promise!

[img]http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/483/38477892.jpg[/img]

And now with the large hose removed...

[img]http://img816.imageshack.us/img816/6537/56545186.jpg[/img]

You will lose quite a bit of coolant when the big pipe is removed. Next undo the 3 nuts that hold the Thermostat in place (Blue lines in pic) these are all quite hard to get to, you will loose skin, blood and possibly a nail. Be careful not to drop the nuts, or the magentic tool may have to some out..... You may find it easier to undo the nut holding the power steering hose bracket, this will give you a bit mote room. When all 3 nuts are out you should be able to move the Thermostat into an easier position to remove the electrical connector and smaller hose.

Now everything is removed you can take out the Thermostat, below is a picture of my faulty one, you can see that one of the plastic arms has snapped off causing it to stay in only one position.

[img]http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/2994/88521163.jpg[/img]

Now you can install your new thermostat ! you should know how to do it now, I would place the small hose on first, then screw in the three bolts (this may take a while as it is so fiddly) then clip on the electrical connector and finnaly spend a while swearing at the large coolant pipe as you try and get the clip back on. If it's too hard you could always put a jubilee clip on.

Nearly done, the thermostat is now fitted but we have lost a fair bit of coolant - this need to be topped up but with engine running and filler cap off as there will be air locks in the system which need time to reach the filler tank. Run the engine for about 10 mins revving to about 2500 rpm and checking the coolant level every min or so, keep doing this until the level remains constant and no longer drops.

Done, you should now have a warm car that knows what temperature it's running at and is not wasting fuel!

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