Registrations

We now manually approve all new user accounts due to a large influx of spam bots. Accounts are normally approved within 48 hours.

If you need any help with using this Wiki, please ask here: TalkFord.com Wiki Submission Forum

Difference between revisions of "Headlight wiring"

From www.FordWiki.co.uk
Jump to: navigation, search
(What use is this to me?)
Line 25: Line 25:
 
Just crimp on a ring connector and screw it to the chassis using one of the existing six or so nuts below the air filter box.
 
Just crimp on a ring connector and screw it to the chassis using one of the existing six or so nuts below the air filter box.
  
Then, wire up the main +12V to the violet/white wire, and the switched input to the yellow/blue wire, using one of the methods below:
+
Then, wire up the +12V inputs using one of the methods below:
 
* T-tap (quick and dirty)
 
* T-tap (quick and dirty)
* Solder and shrink tubing (reliable and beautiful, if done right)
+
* Splice, solder, and shrink tubing (reliable and beautiful, if done right)
* Home made tap loom using bullet/blade connectors and spare wires
+
* Home made tap loom using bullet/blade connectors and spare wires (if you're uncomfortable with splicing, but good with a crimping tool)
  
 
[[Category:Mondeo_Mk4]]
 
[[Category:Mondeo_Mk4]]

Revision as of 09:50, 29 May 2013

Headlight wiring for Mondeo Mk4

Colour codes for the Mk4 Mondeo headlight wiring, shamelessly "obtained" from a post 4titx made on one of the affiliated forums.

Left headlamp unit

  • LH Ignition Live: Violet/White
  • LH Sidelight: Yellow/Blue
  • LH Dip beam: Brown/Blue
  • Negative: Black/Yellow

Right headlamp unit

  • RH ignition Live: Violet/White
  • RH Sidelight: Brown/Yellow
  • RH Dip beam: Blue/Green
  • Negative: Black/Violet


What use is this to me?

There can be many reasons, but one good example is a popular mod for the Mk4.0, which is to fit aftermarket daytime running light (DRL) units. If the kit contains one ballast that drives both units, a good location to fit it would be underneath the left headlight.

That way, you don't have to tap into the ground wire of the lamp itself. Just crimp on a ring connector and screw it to the chassis using one of the existing six or so nuts below the air filter box.

Then, wire up the +12V inputs using one of the methods below:

  • T-tap (quick and dirty)
  • Splice, solder, and shrink tubing (reliable and beautiful, if done right)
  • Home made tap loom using bullet/blade connectors and spare wires (if you're uncomfortable with splicing, but good with a crimping tool)