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Difference between revisions of "Coilovers - How to fit to a Ka Mk1"

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Line 32: Line 32:
 
'''Tools:'''
 
'''Tools:'''
 
Jack
 
Jack
 +
 
Axles stands x2
 
Axles stands x2
 +
 
Sockets and ratchet (15,17,18,19 mm)
 
Sockets and ratchet (15,17,18,19 mm)
 +
 
Spanners (15,17,18,19mm)
 
Spanners (15,17,18,19mm)
 +
 
Allen key for tops of struts (or an allen bit in a socket is better)
 
Allen key for tops of struts (or an allen bit in a socket is better)
 +
 
Grips
 
Grips
 +
 
BIG hammer.  
 
BIG hammer.  
  
Line 45: Line 51:
 
'''Basically, for rears:'''
 
'''Basically, for rears:'''
 
Loosen the top nuts on the shocks (just leave hanging on by a couple of turns)
 
Loosen the top nuts on the shocks (just leave hanging on by a couple of turns)
 +
 
Support the car on stands (on the body not the beam)
 
Support the car on stands (on the body not the beam)
 +
 
Remove wheels
 
Remove wheels
 +
 
Support the beam with a jack
 
Support the beam with a jack
 +
 
Unclip the handbrake hoses from the metal clips on the beam
 
Unclip the handbrake hoses from the metal clips on the beam
 +
 
Undo the 2 eye mount bolts
 
Undo the 2 eye mount bolts
 +
 
Lower the beam with the jack
 
Lower the beam with the jack
 +
 
Support each shock with one hand and remove the top nut with the other, lower the shock away. - Repeat other side.
 
Support each shock with one hand and remove the top nut with the other, lower the shock away. - Repeat other side.
 +
 
Put the old top mounts on the coilovers (just drop on IIRC)
 
Put the old top mounts on the coilovers (just drop on IIRC)
 +
 
Lift in, slide on top cup, screw on a nut at the top a few turns to hold. Repeat other side.
 
Lift in, slide on top cup, screw on a nut at the top a few turns to hold. Repeat other side.
 +
 
Jack the beam up till you can refit the bottom bolts (don't tighten all the way)
 
Jack the beam up till you can refit the bottom bolts (don't tighten all the way)
 +
 
Set the spring platform height (quite high to start then wind down)
 
Set the spring platform height (quite high to start then wind down)
 +
 
Clip the handbrake cable back into the clips.
 
Clip the handbrake cable back into the clips.
 +
 
Lower car to ground, torque bottom bolts, tighten top nuts.
 
Lower car to ground, torque bottom bolts, tighten top nuts.
  
 
'''Front:'''
 
'''Front:'''
 
Loosen top nuts.
 
Loosen top nuts.
 +
 
Jack car up (both sides at the same time is easier to take the tension off the anti roll bar)
 
Jack car up (both sides at the same time is easier to take the tension off the anti roll bar)
 +
 
Remove wheels
 
Remove wheels
 +
 
Undo and remove the top of the drop link from the strut, unclip brake hose.
 
Undo and remove the top of the drop link from the strut, unclip brake hose.
 +
 
Undo and remove strut clamp bolt
 
Undo and remove strut clamp bolt
 +
 
Tap (smack with a hammer) the hub down away from the strut (You can get a cold chisel in the opening at the back to loosen things up)
 
Tap (smack with a hammer) the hub down away from the strut (You can get a cold chisel in the opening at the back to loosen things up)
 +
 
Hold strut, undo top nut and lift away.
 
Hold strut, undo top nut and lift away.
 +
 
Bearings and top mounts on the coilovers, lift into position, refit everything.
 
Bearings and top mounts on the coilovers, lift into position, refit everything.
  
 
[[Category:Ka_Mk1]]
 
[[Category:Ka_Mk1]]

Latest revision as of 17:17, 25 October 2011

The Ford Ka hit our roads in 1996, and and it's currently on its second revision which was launched in 2008.
For more information, visit the Ford Ka forum on TalkFord.com, the largest and most comprehensive Ford Ka website in the UK.

Fordwiki infobox.png
Overview Guide (Demonstration)
Ford Model: Ka
Petrol/Diesel: Petrol
Estimated Cost: N/A
Difficulty? Medium
How long does this take? 4-8 hours

Tools: Jack

Axles stands x2

Sockets and ratchet (15,17,18,19 mm)

Spanners (15,17,18,19mm)

Allen key for tops of struts (or an allen bit in a socket is better)

Grips

BIG hammer.

IMPORTANT - ENSURE CAR IS SAFELY SUPPORTED WITH JACK AND AXLE STANDS BEFORE COMMENCING

you won't need spring compressors, just wind the coil platforms right down before you fit the springs, then wind up again once the top nuts on.

Basically, for rears: Loosen the top nuts on the shocks (just leave hanging on by a couple of turns)

Support the car on stands (on the body not the beam)

Remove wheels

Support the beam with a jack

Unclip the handbrake hoses from the metal clips on the beam

Undo the 2 eye mount bolts

Lower the beam with the jack

Support each shock with one hand and remove the top nut with the other, lower the shock away. - Repeat other side.

Put the old top mounts on the coilovers (just drop on IIRC)

Lift in, slide on top cup, screw on a nut at the top a few turns to hold. Repeat other side.

Jack the beam up till you can refit the bottom bolts (don't tighten all the way)

Set the spring platform height (quite high to start then wind down)

Clip the handbrake cable back into the clips.

Lower car to ground, torque bottom bolts, tighten top nuts.

Front: Loosen top nuts.

Jack car up (both sides at the same time is easier to take the tension off the anti roll bar)

Remove wheels

Undo and remove the top of the drop link from the strut, unclip brake hose.

Undo and remove strut clamp bolt

Tap (smack with a hammer) the hub down away from the strut (You can get a cold chisel in the opening at the back to loosen things up)

Hold strut, undo top nut and lift away.

Bearings and top mounts on the coilovers, lift into position, refit everything.