www.FordWiki.co.uk - New pages [en]

Car engine maintenance

2012-03-26T18:45:06Z

Monkeyra:

While there are times when it is essential to have you car thoroughly checked by a qualified motor mechanic, what many car drivers do not realise is that they can perform a lot of routine car maintenance checks themselves, which will save them a lot of unnecessary expense, as well as allowing them to learn a useful new skill. This can be particularly important for those car owners who do not have an abundance of disposable income, such as students and those in part time work.

Clearly one of the most important parts of the car is the engine, as without a working engine, the car is essentially useless – therefore it is important to make sure that this is subject to regular routine maintenance checks. One of the things which can seriously damage an engine and which can be checked by anyone is the level of oil in the engine. Ideally you should look to check the oil level in your car engine a minimum of once every two weeks and this check should be performed when the engine is cold, rather than when it has just been used, and when the car is parked on a surface which is level. In order to check the oil level, pull out the dipstick – which you will find sticking out of the side of the engine possibly with a handle coloured yellow, orange or red. Once you have taken it out, wipe it with a rag, before reinserting it all the way, and then removing it again to make sure that the oil mark falls between the lower and upper limits.

If you are required to top up the level of oil in your engine, it is important to ensure that you use the correct oil, which will be the one already in the engine. The information concerning this will be in the manual for the car. The oil cap will probably be on top of the engine, and will be named as such. This is where you pour the oil in, and afterwards, you should re-check the dipstick, to make sure you have enough in the engine.

If you have been injured in a car accident due to someone else's poorly maintained car, or even your own when a mechanic hasn't checked things correctly, then you can discuss things with the [http://www.roadtrafficaccidentsite.com/Pages/default.aspx road accident claims] at The Road Traffic Accident Site.

MK3 Airbag

2012-02-28T19:37:51Z

Compuwiz uk:

{{note|'''The Ford Mondeo hit our roads in 1993, and has consistently been a sales success.

Now on its 4th incarnation, it remains a drivers favourite.'''<br>
'''For more information, visit the [http://www.talkford.com/forum/596-mondeo/ Ford Mondeo]

forum on [http://www.talkford.com TalkFord.com], the definitive resource site covering all

Fords from the present day to the 1970's.'''}}
----
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|datastyle = text-align:right;
|header1 =
|label1 = Ford Model:
|data1 = '''Mondeo'''
|header2 =
|label2 = Petrol/Diesel:
|data2 = '''????'''
|header3 =
|label3 = Estimated Cost:
|data3 = '''????'''
|header4 =
|label4 = Difficulty?
|data4 = '''????'''
|label5 = How long does this take?
|data5 = '''????'''
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== Approx Fitting Time & 1st Things To Check For ==

15-20 mins + 15 mins airbag system drain time if required.

If the ignition has recently been switched on then you will have to wait 15 minutes minimum for the airbag system to fully discharge or disconnect the battery & wait again just to be 100% safe.

== Parts Required ==

T30 torx bit screwdriver

Small flat screwdriver

24mm Socket ( deep socket if you have one )

Small extension bar ( if you dont have a deep socket )

T-bar for the socket.

Optional - Power Bar incase the t-bar aint shifting the bolt ( it can be tight if never undone since the car was made )

Piccies of the kit.

[[Image:MK3_Steering_Wheel_Change_Tools.jpg]]

[[Image:MK3_Steering_Wheel_Change_possible_tool.jpg]]

== Instructions ==

=== Airbag Removal ===

Turn the ignition key just enough to unlock the steering lock ( but dont engage the ACC / I Position ( if you do engage said position then switch off the ignition & make sure to wait 15 mins before you progress further to allow the airbag system to drain - unless you have disconnected the battery of coarse )

[[Image:MK3_Steering_Wheel_Change_-_ignition.jpg]]

Turn Steering wheel 90 Degree's from the striaght ahead position

[[Image:MK3_Steering_Wheel_Change_1.jpg]]

Locate the screw hole that is now at the top of the steering wheel back & insert the torx screwdriver & undo the screw

[[Image:MK3_Steering_Wheel_Change_2.jpg]]

Turn the steering wheel 1800 degree's in the opposite direction & undo the screw found at that side.

[[Image:MK3_Steering_Wheel_Change_3.jpg]]

While making sure to support the airbag for falling, turn the steering wheel to the straight ahead position & remove the ignition key & enable the steering lock.

[[Image:MK3_Steering_Wheel_Change_4.jpg]]

carefully pull the airbag forwards & suitably support it to allow you to work behind the airbag.

[[Image:MK3_Steering_Wheel_Change_5.jpg]]

Now undo the 2 clips on the rear of the airbag itself ( just squeeze the little tabs at the side & pull normally, occasionally though your airbag may have actually been fitted correctly & the locking tabs applied so if the side tabs do not press, slide the yellow locking tab towards the rear of the plug ( where the cables are ) & then try the tabs again.

[[Image:MK3_Steering_Wheel_Change_6.jpg]]
[[Image:MK3_Steering_Wheel_Change_7.jpg]]
[[Image:MK3_Steering_Wheel_Change_8.jpg]]
[[Image:MK3_Steering_Wheel_Change_9.jpg]]

Now for the final connection holding the airbag inpace, the horn/cruise buttons connector.

Using a small flat screwdriver/bit push the locking tab down on the connector plug & pull the plug from the clockspring.

[[Image:MK3_Steering_Wheel_Change_10.jpg]]
[[Image:MK3_Steering_Wheel_Change_11.jpg]]
[[Image:MK3_Steering_Wheel_Change_12.jpg]]
[[Image:MK3_Steering_Wheel_Change_13.jpg]]

Now you can remove the airbag & store it safely ( badge side facing upwards just incase it goes off ( then you dont have to remember to watch for it coming down again when it scares the life out of you :} - never had this happen after many airbags have been removed but best to advise about it being possible.

=== Steering Wheel Removal ===

Undo the bolt in the middle of the steering wheel a few turns - & only a few turns mind, you dont want that bolt out fully just yet.

[[Image:MK3_Steering_Wheel_Change_14.jpg]]

Now give the steering wheel a good tug & it should pop loose & stop when it hits the bolt once again ( best done this way than getting a face full of steering wheel if the bolt is fully removed with the wheel still stuck inplace - the wheel may not always be stuck but when it is its on well lol )

[[Image:MK3_Steering_Wheel_Change_15.jpg]]

This piccy shows the spring mounted behind the wheel that helps you get a face full of wheel if you fully remove the bolt when the wheel is stuck inplace.

[[Image:MK3_Steering_Wheel_Change_16.jpg]]

Make sure you keep the clockspring from turning between removing & refitting the wheel ( a strip of tape may help with this if the wheel is going to be off for a while but normally you can just hold it while you put down the old wheel & pick up the new one.

== Refitting ==

Basically reverse the removal instructions to refit the steering wheel.

Only pointt worthy of a mention is to switch on the ignition after refitting everything from outside the vehicle just incase the airbag deploys ( once again unlikely but must be mentioned given the fact it can occasionally happen )

[[Category:Mondeo_Mk3]]

Centre Dashboard Console Removal - Pre-facelift

2012-02-28T17:14:54Z

Compuwiz uk: /* Tools Required */

Hatch Rear Seating Into Estate

2012-02-28T14:55:40Z

Compuwiz uk: Created page with "{{note|'''The Ford Mondeo hit our roads in 1993, and has consistently been a sales success. Now on its 4th incarnation, it remains a drivers favourite.'''<br> '''For more informa..."

Leather Trim Centre Console

2012-02-28T14:49:21Z

Compuwiz uk: moved Leather Trim Centre Console to Leather Trim Centre Armrest Lid

{{note|'''The Ford Mondeo hit our roads in 1993, and has consistently been a sales success. Now on its 4th incarnation, it remains a drivers favourite.'''<br>
'''For more information, visit the [http://www.talkford.com/forum/596-mondeo/ Ford Mondeo] forum on [http://www.talkford.com TalkFord.com], the definitive resource site covering all Fords from the present day to the 1970's.'''}}
----
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|data1 = '''Mondeo'''
|header2 =
|label2 = Petrol/Diesel:
|data2 = '''????'''
|header3 =
|label3 = Estimated Cost:
|data3 = '''????'''
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== Approx Fitting Time ==

30 - 40 minutes

== Parts Required ==

Standard Mk3 Mondeo Arm Rest
Leather Armrest Cover ( the one in this guide is from ebay )
Torx Screwdriver

Adhesive ( Hotmelt glue etc )

== Fitting Instructions ==

=== Preparing The Armrest For Fitting ===

Open The Arm Rest Lid

Undo the 2 torx screws holding the lid to the floor console.

[[Image:Arm_Rest_Lid_1.jpg]]

Now Remove the 2 torx scres holding the lid bracket to the lid.

[[Image:Arm_Rest_Lid_2.jpg]]

This is what your left with.

[[Image:Arm_Rest_Lid_3.jpg]]

Now prise out the underside of the lid leaving you with just the armrest lid

=== Fitting The Cover ===

Open up the cover & align it properly ( the 2 cutouts goto the front of the armrest. )

Insert the front of the armrest & align it with the cutouts in the cover.

Then push the rear of the armrest into the cover & check the alignment of the stiching.

Now pull the front cover between the cutouts until a few mm's of the cover is inside the lid plastics ( make sure you dont fully cover the mounts the cutouts are there for ) & glue the cover inplace.

now do the same for the rest of the cover bit by bit making sure the stitching stays aligned & the cover is kept tight.

[[Image:Arm_Rest_Lid_4.jpg]]

To do the rear properly may involve some trimming but its not 100% required as you can tuck enough cover into the rear section as required ( just ) this does not need glueing down unless it wont stay inplace properly.

=== Rebuilding & Refitting the Armrest ===

Once the cover is inplace & your happy with it, let any glue set suitably if its not already set.

Slide the front of the lid underside into the 2 mount points on the lid top.

now push the lid underside down while still pushing the cover into the front mounting points & hopefully the screw holes should line up at the back or be pretty darn close ( if nowhere near then retry the fitting of the lid underside from the start & make sure your pushing firmly to the front of the lid while putting the underside inplace ) if the fitting is close enough to see the screw holes you should be OK with just putting the screws inplace as it should align itself & tighten up when the screws go in ( they did for me anyway )

''if the lid underside will not let you release enough pressure to perform the next step then leave off the bracket & just use the screws as its less fiddly & has the same result of forcing the lid underside into place''

Place the bracket in position & add one of the screws ( may not be able to fully fasten this screw down yet though ), then add the second screw & fully fasten both down nice & tightly.

The lid is now ready for refitting back to the car if your happy with the result.

[[Image:Arm_Rest_Lid_5-1.jpg]]

[[Image:Arm_Rest_Lid_5-2.jpg]]

[[Image:Arm_Rest_Lid_5-3.jpg]]

''Try as i might, i was unable to get rid of 2 small Soft Spots at the upper rear corners of the cover ( i put this down to the cover being made pretty straight whereas the lid is wider at the front than the rear etc - its either that or my fitting method lol''

[[Category:Mondeo_Mk3]]

Dash Airvent Flow Adjustment Roller Fix

2012-02-28T14:24:27Z

Compuwiz uk: /* Related Guides */

Common Rail Injector Types

2012-02-24T22:55:38Z

Peter scott:

----

'''Mondeo Common Rail Injectors'''

This information is a combination of data from Ford parts lists and a useful catalogue from United Diesel that was pointed out by Mondysteve.

The Month / Year dates generally agree between the two sources but '''these should not be taken as vehicle build dates'''. The change from Euro 3 to Euro 4 doesn't correspond to the availability date of Euro 4 injectors but is spread over a period of more than 18 months. So when determining the correct injectors you need to know both the build date and whether your car is Euro 3 or Euro 4. You can find this by entering your registration number or VIN into [eTIS][http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do;jsessionid=DA4D64B4CC2803FC51091A58C1D0F232.eccvas510].

The chart below gives some idea of the distribution of Euro 3 and 4 cars by build date. Note that 130 hp Euro 3 cars become 125 hp as Euro 4 and 155 hp Euro 3s become 152 hp as Euro 4. Ford doesn't show any change in horse power for 115 hp cars. This data is just a sample of cars taken from eBay. There are 66 cars represented. Each pink blob is a car and you can read its hp off the Y axis and its build date off the X axis (years are shown along the top). The green line indicates whether a car is Euro 3 or Euro 4. There don't appear to be any 3s in 2006 and there shouldn't be any 4s prior to September 2003.

[[File:Euro Build4.jpg]]

In the Mondeo the transition from long nozzle injectors to short nozzle takes place in June 2003. June 2003 is also the transition date where two box ECU moves to one box. '''F-Super / Formidable will not read from or program the C2i injector codes with the two box ECUs.'''

'''Reading Your Injector Labels'''

If you stick a mirror down the back you can then take a photo and reverse it.

[[File:Mirror.jpg]]
[[File:Injectors Label.jpg]]

Injector characteristics are shown here: http://www.merlindiesel.com/media/Delphiinjectortestplans.pdf

{| class="wikitable collapsible" border="1"

|-
! scope="col" | Model
! scope="col" | Month / Year
! scope="col" | Ford Part
! scope="col" | Delphi Part
! scope="col" | Euro
|-
| 115hp || Sep 02-Nov 02 || 3S7Q-9K546-AA || EJDR00202Z || 3
|-
| 115hp || Nov 02-Jun 03 || 3S7Q-9K546-AB || EJDR00402Z || 3
|-
| 115hp Manual Trns|| Jun 03-|| 3S7Q-9K546-CB || EJDR00502Z || 3
|-
|115hp Auto Trns & Man repair ||Jun 03-||3S7Q-9K546-BB||EJDR00501Z||3
|-
| 115hp || Sep 03- || 4S7Q-PK546-BD || EJDR00504Z || 4
|-
|115hp||Feb 06-||6S7Q-9K546-BA||EJDR00801D||4
|-
| || || || ||
|-
| || || || ||
|-
|130hp||Oct 01-Jan 03||2S7Q-9K546-AJ||EJDR00301Z||3
|-
|130hp ||Jan 03-Jun 03||2C1Q-9K546-BA||EJDR01001D||3
|-
|130hp ||Jun 03-||3S7Q-9K546-BB||EJDR00501Z||3
|-
|125hp||Sep 03-||4S7Q-PK546-BD||EJDR00504Z||4
|-
|125hp||Feb 06-||6S7Q-9K546-BA||EJDR00801D||4
|-
| || || || ||
|-
| || || || ||
|-
|155hp||Aug 04-||5S7Q-9K546-AB||EJDR00601D||3
|-
|152hp||Aug 05-||6S7Q-9K546-AA||EJDR00701D||4
|}

Below is a plot of the injected fuel volume of four of the common injector types for comparison.

The table shows the test point rail pressures and injection pulse widths:
{| class="wikitable collapsible" border="1"

|-
! scope="col" | Idle
! scope="col" | Light Load
! scope="col" | Mid Range
! scope="col" | Mid Range
! scope="col" | Max Fuel
|-
|250 bar||400 bar||800 bar||1200 bar||1600 bar
|-
|700 uS||600 uS||600 uS||1200 uS||1600 uS
|}

[[File:Fuel_Injected3.jpg]]

'''How to Change Injectors'''
This article has video demonstrations of changing injectors and programming them with the TRW tool.
http://www.faiauto.com/lucas/easycheck/replace_injectors

[[Category:Mondeo_Mk3]]

F Super

2012-02-21T12:18:20Z

Peter scott:

----
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|data1 = '''Mondeo_Mk3'''

|header2 =
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|data2 = '''Diesel'''
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|label5 = How long does this take?
|data5 = '''?'''
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'''The F-Super / Formidable Instruction Manual'''

[[File:F_Super_Formidable_Manual.pdf]]

A frequently asked question is '''"Can F-Super re-code my injectors?"'''

The answer depends on the build date of your car.

Cars with build date 06/2003 and later (i.e. 3Y) can have their injector codes written to and read from the PCM by F-Super but earlier cars cannot.

For the Transit the build date is 07/2003 and later (i.e. 3S).

To determine your car's build date check the characters 11 and 12 on your VIN number.

The Transit has a longer VIN code but the year and month codes are still 11 and 12 characters to the right of the W.

[[File:Build_Date 2.jpg]]

'''Identifying and Coding Injectors'''

Notes:

1.The engine should be stone cold prior to re-coding. At least 8 hours since last run.

2. The action of writing the codes into the ECU also resets the fuel trim values that the ECU adjusts by listening to the knock sensor mounted on the cylinder block. Each injection normally consists of a small pilot injection followed by the main injection. Immediately after recoding, the pilot injection will be reset to zero. This will cause the engine to sound more like an old taxi for a while until the ECU readjusts the pilot injections. This readjustment may take quite a substantial time to return to normal.

3. If the injectors are badly worn then the ECU will attempt to adjust out the Diesel knock but there are limits to its adjustment range and after some time it may run up against the limit. When this happens the engine will be put into limp mode and one or more of the following DTCs will be recorded.

P2336 Cylinder #1 Above Knock Threshold

P2337 Cylinder #2 Above Knock Threshold

P2338 Cylinder #3 Above Knock Threshold

P2339 Cylinder #4 Above Knock Threshold

[[File:Fsuper1.jpg]]

'''MAP, BARO and Boost Pressure'''

F Super is very good but the Live Data screen has some problems with the stated units:

MAP has units of kPA but the actual values shown in the F Super window need to be multiplied by 10 to be correct.
(e.g. At rest the MAP should just read atmospheric pressure which is about 100 kPa but F Super reads 10 kPa)

Likewise the BARO reading in F Super should normally read about 1000 mb (millibars) but actually displays about 100 mb.

So, if you wanted to know what your Boost Pressure was:

Boost pressure in psi = ((10xMAP) - BARO) / 6.895

e.g. If the MAP is reading 23 in F Super and BARO is reading 100 we can say that the boost pressure is:
230 - 100 = 130 kPa. i.e. 18.85 psi

1 bar = 100 kPa.

1 psi = 6.895 kPa.

'''Accelerator Pedal Position Sensors APP1, APP2, APP3'''

See: http://articles.d-tips.com/art8.html

[[Category:Mondeo_Mk3]]
[[Category:Mondeo_Mk4]]
[[Category:Focus_Mk1]]
[[Category:Focus_Mk2]]
[[Category:Focus_Mk3]]
[[Category:S-Max_Mk1]]
[[Category:C-Max_Mk1]]
[[Category:C-Max_Mk2]]
[[Category:C-Max_Mk1]]
[[Category:Galaxy_Mk2]]
[[Category:Galaxy_Mk3]]
[[Category:Fiesta_Mk6]]
[[Category:Fiesta_Mk7]]
[[Category:Transit_Connect]]
[[Category:Transit_Mk6]]

Clutch replacement

2012-02-12T15:18:56Z

Ian Rushton: /* Changing the Clutch on a Mk.3 Mondeo (WORK IN PROGRESS) */

== '''Changing the Clutch on a Mk.3 Mondeo (WORK IN PROGRESS)''' ==

After attempting this job myself, on a drive way with minimal tools, I thought it would be helpful to post up the steps involved.

Please bear in mind that my approach may not necessarily be the best way of doing it, but it worked for me! Also bear in mind that these steps were carried out on a 54 plate 6 speeed TDCi model - although most 4 cylinder petrol cars will be similar, the intermediate steps will differ (no turbo pipes, different EGR pipes, gearchange cables and selector positions etc etc)

===[[Tools Needed]]===

To do this job, you need a minimum of the following:

*At least one quality trolley jack (I used two for the job, it made it a lot easier to raise and lower the engine to disengage and re-engage the gearbox
*Stands
*Some sort of engine support (300kg version will suffice as long as you are careful, although i found the Sealey model was a bit narrow; it did still work though)
*some heavy duty ratchet straps (I used 3)
*Set of Vortex sockets (standard may suffice, but makes this job a LOT easier when removing the drop links, when you need to hold the stud!)
*Set of male and female Torx bits and sockets
*Set of spanners - ratchet preferably
*Screwdrivers
*Good quality wire brush, paintbrushes for cleaning.
*Plenty of clutch/brake cleaner and rags to keep things from leaking and for keeping things clean!

[[File:01_New_Clutch_Kit.jpg|400px|right]]

===[[Parts Needed]]===

*Full clutch kit - DMF, friction plate, Pressure plate, CSC Slave Cylinder)
*Driveshaft oil seals
*Clutch fluid (I used the genuine ford stuff, you need 1.6L for the TDCi 6 speed. Its worth buying the Ford stuff
*Crankshaft oil seal (clutch end obviously!)
*Decent thread locking fluid
*Anti seize compound

[[Category:Mondeo_Mk3]]

The importance of getting a data check

2011-12-05T21:26:51Z

Monkeyra: Created page with "Cars today are subject to strict MOTs, which attempt to ensure high standards of safety. This means that when you buy second hand cars, you will have some level of assurance th..."

Cars today are subject to strict MOTs, which attempt to ensure high
standards of safety. This means that when you buy second hand cars, you
will have some level of assurance that the car is at least fairly safe
although this shouldn’t be taken for granted. An MOT means a car is safe
at the point of the inspection, not necessarily now.

The impending MOT could very well deem the car un-roadworthy. This not
only threatens your safety, but also the value of your investment. There
are a few superficial checks we can carry out to gauge a cars safety,
the first is a Data Check. A decent data check from a reputable firm
will tell you if a car has been written off or stolen, and it’ll tell
you roughly how many miles your prospective second hand cars will have
done. You should always take a test drive to see if the car performs
correctly and check for the obvious – tyre wear, fluid levels, leaks,
and rust.

These checks are very much scratching the surface and the vast majority
of important checks are to take place underneath the bonnet.
Electricals, emissions, cooling systems, engine compartments and
suspension are often beyond the grasp of most ordinary people. This has
lead to many companies now offering independent checks.

A comprehensive check can be carried out for around £120, and for your
convenience the only people that need to be present are the seller and
the independent mechanic. The check will give you peace of mind that the
car you are buying has no glaring faults, and above all is safe.

We naturally presume safety in our cars today due to tight regulations –
second hand cars included – but we should be aware of the fact that some
dealers may not be entirely honest in their appraisal of your potential
purchase. Always try to buy a car with a long MOT; this not only gives
you a long time before you have to shell out for expensive repairs, it
indicates that the car has recently been deemed roadworthy.

So the moral of the story is if you are going to buy a [http://www.motors.co.uk/used/cars/ford/focus used Ford Focus]
or any ford for that matter make sure you fully check the history of the
vehicle.

LED's in door handles

2011-12-05T18:27:32Z

Monkeyra:

'''Tools Needed:'''

Large flat head screwdriver

8mm socket and driver

Multimeter

4 x Scotch locks

Insulation tape

4mm drill bit and drill

Marker pen

What I’m fitting is a 3 light SMD, they come in longer strips and can be cut down, These depending how you wire them can glow RED/BLUE or GREEN.

[[File:LED1.jpg‎|400px]]

'''STEP 1'''

Removing the door panel , First start by squeezing the top and bottom of the plastic door trim by the handle and then prize from the window switch or alarm switch side.
Pulling gently until it unclips, use a flat screwdriver if you cannot get your finger nails behind. Once released unclip the wiring.

[[File:LED2.jpg‎|400px]]
[[File:LED3.jpg‎|400px]]

'''STEP 2'''

with a flat screw drive move to the bottom half of the handle cover, insert the screwdriver and push down and work your way across until lower handle comes down and remove.
Undo the 2 x 8mm bolts underneath the door handle and remove. If working on the driver’s door unplug the window and mirror wires.

[[File:LED4.jpg‎|400px]]
[[File:LED5.jpg‎|400px]]

'''STEP 3'''

Inner door card is held by 7 clips , easy way I found to remove was start at lower edge getting my fingers behind and using a large flat screwdriver rest it next to the clip and twist
to unclip, cover the screwdriver with a rag first. Then work your way along the bottom and side's then the top leaving the one by the mirror until last as there is a small section behind the mirror trim.

[[File:LED6.jpg‎|400px]]

'''STEP 4'''

Checking which wires so out with the multimeter, wiring is different. Passenger side the switch is the power window, drivers side is the alarm sensor turn off switch.

Passenger side wires to wire too are Green/Black (+) and Black/White (-)

Drivers door wires to wire too are Yellow (+) and Black/White (-).

[[File:LED7.jpg‎|400px]]
[[File:LED8.jpg‎|400px]]

'''STEP 5'''

Mark door handle trim with placement of LEDS as shown and drill 3 x 4mm holes. Make sure you are drilling the top of the trim and not the bottom.
Try LEDS against the holes and use Wide 1 inch insulation tape to secure LEDS to the trim.

[[File:LED9.jpg‎|400px]]
[[File:LED10.jpg‎|400px]]
[[File:LED11.jpg‎|400px]]

'''STEP 6'''

Scotch lock (+) LED wire to Green/Black and (-) LED to Black/White .Switch on ignition to test.

[[File:LED12.jpg‎|400px]]
[[File:LED13.jpg‎|400px]]

'''STEP 7'''

Slide door handle trim through door hand gap in door card and position clips over the clip holes starting with the top corner by the mirror.
Push against door card in the corner and then align the top and again pushing door card until clip clicks into place, carry on around until door card is back in place.
Replace the 2 x 8mm handle securing nuts and lower door handle trim.
Pull handle forward and slide handle trim behind the handle, reconnect the wiring plug, and clip back into place. Passenger side is complete.

[[File:LED14.jpg‎|400px]]

'''STEP 8'''

Drivers side follow previous steps apart from the wiring.
The wiring in the Drivers switch is different as it’s not the electric window switch ; it is the alarm sensor off switch.
Wire (+) LED to Yellow and wire (-) LED to Black/White.

[[File:LED15.jpg‎|400px]]
[[File:LED16.jpg‎|400px]]
[[File:LED17.jpg‎|400px]]

What I will say is. The passenger and rear Passenger doors all work differently to the driver’s door. All the passenger doors light up when opening the door or switching on courtesy lights.
This stays on for 3 seconds , when ignition is turned on it lights up full time , when ignition is turned off it stays illuminated for 3 seconds and then goes off after you leave the car.
The driver’s door however only come's on when ignition is on and goes off when you turn ignition off.
Obviously they are not on the same circuit, but I have tested all other wiring there and the same circuit is not in the driver’s door. You could however trace a wire from the rear O/S door to the
driver’s door if you wanted them to all act the same. But I’m happy with it as it is for now.
Just got to order 2 more SMD leds for the rear doors now.

[[File:LED18.jpg‎|400px]]

Source: http://www.ffoc.co.uk/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=264251

[[Category:Focus_Mk2]]

Retro Fit C-Max Enterainment System to a Mondeo

2011-12-01T16:42:36Z

Col Tubbs: Created page with " To do this you will need the following parts: Roof Loom Mounting Plate DVD unit with Code Headphones x2 Remote Control A lot of brave pills Sharp Knife (You might your parents ..."

To do this you will need the following parts:

Roof Loom
Mounting Plate
DVD unit with Code
Headphones x2
Remote Control
A lot of brave pills
Sharp Knife (You might your parents perrmission to use it.)

With this being a self contain unit, it should be fairly easy to fit and power up. There is no audio connections to sort out to the radio unit, just Constant power, switch power, and night time illumitaion and finaly ground connectios to deal with.

Constant power/switch power could be brought together and pick this feed up from the interior lights as this is on constant, except when the ingtion is off and it's on the power save. (20 mins top)

Night time feed can be pick up from the subermarine lights (if you have them) or from the lighting of the switches.

This should power up the unit and it should all work.

ECU Basics

2011-11-27T20:22:18Z

Monkeyra:

'''Ecu basics'''

The intent of this is to introduce (and help people understand for themselves) how an ECU works, mostly in order to help people decide whether or not they â€œneed a tuneâ€, or figure out â€œwhat a tune doesâ€, etc... I will try to keep it short and simple, but I have learned a lot about this platform over the years, and this is my first attempt at writing it all down. I'm also going to keep it Focus-specific so I dont have to go into the other kinds of systems out there. In fact, a few of these things may be Zetec-specfic, so I apologize to duratec/spi owners when this happens and hope you or other experienced tuners will correct me where needed. So in general, keep in mind there are a few different ways things are done on different cars. In particular, the 08+ cars have e-throttle...so things are quite different... Anyway, here goes nuttin.

The ECU, like any computer, has inputs and outputs. It takes information from the inputs, looks in its memory to see what to do with those inputs, and then sends commands to its outputs telling them what to do. I think it would be good to start off by listing the major inputs and outputs and a description of what they do, along with a few â€œtrade secretsâ€ to keep in mind about each one.

'''INPUTS'''

'''Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF)'''
This is the most important part of the entire operation. If the ECU does not know how much air is coming into the engine, it is next to impossible to get the correct information to its outputs. The Focus MAF is a hot wire sensor. Using a Wheatstone Bridge circuit, the MAF measures the resistance of a wire in the path of the intake airflow. This wire changes resistance as its temperature changes, and its temperature depends on the velocity of air going past it as a result of convective cooling. At the end of all this scientific mumbo jumbo, the MAF outputs a voltage (0-5 VDC) that is representative of a certain amount (mass) of air going past it. You can log this in either volts or counts (0-1024). Counts are more useful on the Zetec (non-SVT) Focus since the MAF transfer function is done in counts.

'''inlet air temperature (IAT) aka air charge temperature (ACT)'''
Intake temps are important because they affect the autoignition point of your air/fuel mixture. Basically, this means you have to change your spark timing based on intake temp. The intake temp is also used by the MAF to figure out air density and the convective cooling stuff I mentioned earlier. On the Focus, the IAT sensor is part of the MAF, so it is advantageous to run a â€œblow-throughâ€ configuration on turbo/Procharger/VF supercharger cars, or relocate the IAT on JRSC or PWSC cars.

'''crank position sensor'''
This is a â€œHall Effectâ€ sensor that uses a magnetic pickup to read a steel pattern on the flywheel or crank pulley. For Hall sensors, there is usually one spot missing on the otherwise regular pattern that signifies TDC or some other known point of rotation. The ECU uses this to know where the crankshaft is in degrees.

'''throttle position sensor (TPS)'''
This is hooked up to the throttle itself and uses a potentiometer to change its output voltage as the throttle opens/closes. In automatic trans cars, it is used in shift logic so the ECU knows when to tell the trans to downshift or upshift based on driver demand. In all Zetec Focuses, throttle position is used to control the open/closed loop transition and also the idle/part throttle transition. It can be logged in volts, counts, and counts relative to closed. The most useful of these is counts relative to closed, since many of the ECU's tables use that value.

'''fuel rail delta pressure sensor'''
Fuel pressure is important because your injectors are calibrated to run at 40psi. There are compensation tables for fuel flow at other pressures, so they will still run fine at other pressures. You can log this value as â€œpressure drop across injectorsâ€. The reason it is called this is you need to know the pressure difference between the manifold and the fuel rail. If your manifold is at 20inHg (idle), you only need 30psi of rail pressure, but if you are only at 5inHg (typical for WOT), you need around 37psi of rail pressure. The same concept applies to boosted cars. At 10psi of boost, you need 50psi of rail pressure. Boosted Focuses run into a problem here. The sensor does not read over atmospheric pressure! So you need to command 50psi in the tune.

'''coolant temperature (ECT)'''
Your engine's overall temperature affects the knock threshold, so the ECU needs to know this value. Additionally, it needs to know when to turn on the fans. The coolant temp also affects cold start functions including the first closed loop transition. On the regular Zetec Focus, there is a sensor that reads the metal temperature on the head, then the ECU uses a transfer function to infer coolant temp.

'''oxygen sensor'''
This sensor outputs a voltage that represents the oxygen content in the exhaust gas, from which the ECU can infer the intake air/fuel ratio. You can log fuel trim (STFT and LTFT) to see what this sensor says. In closed loop, STFT will show the actual fuel trim value. In open loop, this sensor is not used, so the STFT simply reports what the base fuel table says. In closed loop, STFT on the Focus is opposite of lambda. A reading over 1.0 means the sensor is reading rich, and under 1.0 is lean. On the Focus this is a narrowband sensor. It is only good at reading afr near 1.0 lambda. As a result, you can easily tune the closed loop range of your MAF using STFT. While tuning, it is a good idea to turn off adaptive learning so you don't have to worry about LTFT. In fact, most people just leave adaptive off since your tune should be pretty good when you're done (â€œgoodâ€ is within 5%, aka bouncing somewhere between .95 and 1.05).

'''knock sensor'''
The bain of many DIY Focus tuners' existence. This sensor is essentially a piezoelectric microphone. If you search in the ECU chat forum you'll see a thread I made about listening to this sensor. Basically, the sensor outputs an AC signal and the ECU processes it to look for sounds in a certain frequency (tone) range. Detonation makes a very distinct sound, so in my experience, listening to it is much more effective than letting electronics do it for you.

'''battery voltage sensor'''
This is important because some of the inputs and outputs (like fuel injectors) are affected by voltage.

'''OUTPUTS'''

'''fuel injectors'''
You may have heard of injectors specified in terms of lb/hr. This is a bit of a misnomer, since they are more complex than just flowing one rate at all times. Injectors have a low slope, breakpoint, and high slope that are all programmed into the ECU. It uses these values to figure out how long it should tell the injectors to open (pulsewidth). You can google this stuff if you are interested.

'''coilpack'''
The Zetec coilpack is a â€œwasted sparkâ€ system. The coil will fire 1&4 or 2&3 at the same time. This is why it is impossible to time your cams â€œ180* outâ€ of phase. The coil has three wires going to it. One is a 12V power source. The other two are switched grounds that complete the circuit to 1&4 or 2&3.

'''fuel pump driver module (FPDM)'''
This is why WE DO NOT HAVE A FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR. The ECU tells the FPDM how much voltage to send to the fuel pump in order to achieve the desired rail pressure (and therefore the desired psi across the injectors). The FPDM and rail delta sensor work together to keep you at 40psi of fuel pressure. No FPR needed.

'''idle air control valve (IAC or IACV)'''
This valve controls how much air goes into your engine when the throttle is closed. If the ECU thinks valve cant perform that job for whatever reason, the spark will go into â€œidle feedback modeâ€ and it will control idle via spark.

~~----------------------- -----------------ooo----- ------------------------- -----------~~

So now that you know the communications aspect of a tune, it would make sense to explain some of the things in the ECU's memory that makes it all work. Here are some of the tables and calculations used by the ECU to get your engine to run correctly:

'''MAF transfer function (MTF)'''
This is the heart and soul of your tune. If your MAF isn't properly modeled, the entire tune is going to be thrown off. The table in the tune has a list of either MAF volts or counts and you tell it how many pounds per minute of airflow are going through the MAF at the given volts. The ECU uses this function to figure out how much fuel to use. Therefore, if you change the diameter of the MAF housing and therefore the velocity of the air going through it, your MTF is going to be wrong. Using a bigger MAF housing without tuning will make your car run LEAN! Remember, in open loop, the o2 sensor is not used, so this lean condition cannot be mended by fuel trims! The MAF is easily affected by changes in airflow characteristics. Any time you change the intake or exhaust, the MTF will need some slight modification. However, in my experience, intake and exhaust mods do not necessitate a tune. When you do cams or a head swap, it will MAJORLY throw off the MTF, especially in the low range. In my experience, you NEED to tune when you get cams.

'''load aka volumetric efficiency'''
Load is calculated using MAF air flow and rpm compared to the engine's full displacement. Basically, if you are at .8 load, you are only using 80% of your engine's displacement. The MTF is CRITICAL for getting this value correct. Since the vast majority of the other tables use load on its Y-axis, you NEED to have the MTF correct so your load is correct.
'''
base fuel table'''
When you are in open loop, the ECU picks the afr it should use out of the base fuel table. This is another reason your MTF needs to be correct. It will infer the amount of fuel to use to achieve the afr in the base table based on the amount of air it reads from the MTF. You make this table the afr you WANT to see, then you change the MTF to get your wideband to match that afr.

'''fuel open loop TP'''
This table controls your open loop transition. A big throttle body will affect what you want this set at since it will flow a lot more air at lower TP counts. When tuning, make sure you're not still in closed loop at a high load. Many tuners just set this table to 500 counts across the board and call it good. In my experience, there are better ways to deal with this, especially if you are the kind of driver that rolls into the throttle or lives in a hilly area.
'''
spark tables'''
The EEC-V has three tables: Borderline Knock Table (BKT), Max Allowed Table, and Minimum spark for Best Torque table (MBT). BKT should be the spark at the knock threshold for 70F ACT and 200F ECT. MBT should be the spark at which you make the most torque regardless of knock (above this spark there is no additional torque to be made). Max allowed is simply the most spark you ever want to see. There are also a few adders (that can also subtract) based on ACT, ECT, afr, sudden load increase, and a few other things. The ECU will pick the lowest of the following three values for â€œfinal sparkâ€: 1. BKT after all adders 2. MBT after ECT, emissions, and afr adders 3. max allowed.

[[Category:Capri_Mk1]]
[[Category:Capri_Mk2]]
[[Category:Capri_Mk3]]

[[Category:Cortina_Mk1]]
[[Category:Cortina_Mk2]]
[[Category:Cortina_Mk3]]
[[Category:Cortina_Mk4]]
[[Category:Cortina_Mk5]]

[[Category:Cougar_Mk1]]

[[Category:C-Max_Mk1]]
[[Category:C-Max_Mk2]]

[[Category:Escort_Mk1]]
[[Category:Escort_Mk2]]
[[Category:Escort_Mk3]]
[[Category:Escort_Mk4]]
[[Category:Escort_Mk5]]
[[Category:Escort_Mk6]]

[[Category:Fiesta_Mk1]]
[[Category:Fiesta_Mk2]]
[[Category:Fiesta_Mk3]]
[[Category:Fiesta_Mk4]]
[[Category:Fiesta_Mk5]]
[[Category:Fiesta_Mk6]]
[[Category:Fiesta_Mk7]]

[[Category:Focus_Mk1]]
[[Category:Focus_Mk2]]
[[Category:Focus_Mk3]]

[[Category:Fusion_Mk1]]

[[Category:Galaxy_Mk1]]
[[Category:Galaxy_Mk2]]
[[Category:Galaxy_Mk3]]

[[Category:Granada_Mk1]]
[[Category:Granada_Mk2]]
[[Category:Granada_Mk3]]

[[Category:Ka_Mk1]]
[[Category:Ka_Mk2]]

[[Category:Kuga_Mk1]]

[[Category:Mondeo_Mk1]]
[[Category:Mondeo_Mk2]]
[[Category:Mondeo_Mk3]]
[[Category:Mondeo_Mk4]]

[[Category:Puma_Mk1]]

[[Category:S-Max_Mk1]]

[[Category:Sierra_Mk1]]

Climate Seats Into Pre Facelift - Wiring Info

2011-11-27T20:16:14Z

Monkeyra:

after numerous requests please see below for wiring changes and or additions to fit Facelift Heated and or Facelift Climate seats to a pre facelift.

'''DRIVERS SIDE'''

C501 (Green Plug CJB) PIN 5 take a OG/YE 0.35mm wire to PIN 6 on the seat switch

C501 (Green Plug CJB) PIN 10 take a GN/YE 0.35mm wire to PIN 4 on the seat switch

C31 (Blue Plug CJB) PIN 1 take a GN/BK 1mm wire to PIN 9 on C60 -> C60d
PIN 8 on the existing PFL switch - BU/RD - Illumination to PIN 3 on the new switch

PIN 4 on the existing PFL switch - BK - GROUND - to PIN 1 on the new seat switch

PIN 2 on the new switch take a WH/GN 0.35mm wire to Pin 17 on C60 -> Pin 1 C60h on the seat connector. This is the program wire telling the seats to cool or heat.

PIN 2 C60h (seat side) goes to PIN 18 C61h (car side) to GROUND

Pin 2 C60d (seat side) goes to PIN 10 (car side) to GROUND

'''PASSENGER SIDE'''

Power, Illumination and Earth wires are the same as the drivers side. As the switch is an integrated unit on the FL no other wires are required.

To power up the passenger side...

Splice a wire into GN/BK 1mm from C31 (Blue Plug CJB) BEFORE it gets to the seat connector (Driver side) Run this wire to PIN 9 C61 -> C61d on the passenger side

Splice a wire into WH/GN 0.35mm BEFORE it gets to the seat connector (Driver Side). Run this wire to PIN 17 C61 -> C61h on the passenger side

PIN 2 C61d (seat side) goes to PIN 10 C61 then to GROUND

PIN 2 C61h (seat side) goes to PIN 18 C61 then to GROUND

Index to symbols / accronyms

PFL - Pre Facelift
FL - Facelift
CJB - Central Junction Box
C61 (etc) refers to plug numbers.

IF YOU ARE AT ALL UNSURE ABOUT THESE INSTRUCTIONS PLEASE ASK! I CANNOT BE HELD ACCOUNTABLE FOR DAMAGE CAUSED. All the above information is taken from official sources.

[[category:Mondeo_Mk3]]

Communications Network Information Module

2011-11-27T20:13:02Z

Monkeyra:

Description and Operation

[[File:Communications_module.jpg‎]]

General

In a communications network (data bus system), various modules of different systems are connected to one another via one or several lines.

The sole purpose of the data bus system is the transmission of data between the connected modules themselves, as well as between the connected modules and the Worldwide Diagnostic System (WDS).

In a data bus system, complete data blocks are transmitted instead of single in/out pulses. In addition to the actual information, these data blocks also contain data regarding the address of the module to be addressed, the size of the data block and information for monitoring the content of each individual data block.

Data bus systems offer various advantages:
* Simplified data transmission between the modules due to a standardised protocol
* Fewer sensors and connectors
* Improved diagnostic options
* Lower costs

The WDS is connected to the various bus systems and to the power supply via the standard 16-pin Data Link Connector (DLC). The signal for the module programming is also transmitted via the DLC.

If, in a data bus system, there is a break in one or both lines or a short to ground or short to voltage is present, then communication between the modules and with the WDS is faulty or is no longer possible at all.

In order to be able to establish communication with one another, the modules of the individual systems must use the same language. This language is called a protocol.

At present, Ford uses three different data bus systems. Depending upon model and equipment level, all three data bus systems are used. Each of these data bus systems has its own protocol.

Data bus systems:
* Standard Corporate Protocol (SCP) bus. This consists of two twisted wires. It is used for communication between the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the WDS via the DLC. Depending upon engine version and year of manufacture, a third wire (ACP bus) is used for programming the PCM. This bus is only used in conjunction with the SCP bus.
* International Organisation for Standardisation ISO 9141 bus. This consists of a single wire and is used exclusively for communication between the modules and the WDS. The fault memories of the various modules are read out via the ISO 9141 bus.
* Controller Area Network (CAN) bus. This consists of two twisted wires and operates serially (data is transmitted sequentially). It is used for communication between the modules themselves and between the modules and the WDS. The modules are connected to the data bus in parallel. New modules can be incorporated easily, without modifying the other wiring or modules. The transmitted data is received by every module connected to the CAN bus. As each data packet has an identifier, in which the priority of the message is determined as well as the content identification, each module can detect whether or not the data is relevant for its own information processing. This enables several modules to be addressed with a particular data packet and supplied with data simultaneously. For this purpose, it is ensured that important data (for example from the Anti-lock Brake System (ABS)) is transmitted first. The other modules are only able to submit their data to the data bus after the high-priority messages have been received.

In order to guarantee a high degree of error protection, two 120 Ohm terminating resistors are installed in the CAN bus. These are integrated in the first module connected to the CAN bus and in the last module connected to the CAN bus respectively and are used for suppression as well as the elimination of voltage peaks. In order to ensure correct functioning of the data bus system, the modules must always be connected with an integral terminating resistor.

The advantages of the CAN bus are:
* Minimization of wiring requirements.
* High degree of error protection (fault / fail-proof).
* Robustness.
* Good extendibility.
* Prioritization of messages.
* Inexpensive.
* Automatic repetition of faulty messages.
* Independent system monitoring and option for automatic disconnection of faulty modules from the data bus.

In vehicles built from MY 2003.75, an additional second CAN bus system is used depending upon vehicle model. The only significant difference is a lower transmission rate and it is mainly used for the convenience electronics at present. In order to be able to differentiate between individual CAN bus systems, the CAN bus system with the high transmission rate is designated as high-speed (HS) CAN bus and the CAN bus system with the lower transmission rate as mid-speed (MS) CAN bus. As in all CAN bus systems, two 120 Ohm terminating resistors are also installed in the MS CAN bus in order to increase the error protection. In order to enable communication between the modules on the HS CAN bus and the modules on the MS CAN bus, one module is connected to both data bus systems. The connection of both data bus systems is designated as gateway. In this gateway, the received data is converted to the transmission rate required for the relevant data bus and is transmitted. This ensures an optimal distribution of information between both data bus systems.

Network Components

SCP bus

Click to resize E0036202

Item
Part Number
Description
1
-
PCM

NOTE: In vehicles with 1.8L Duratec-SCi (MI4) engine, no SCP bus is used.

The SCP bus only connects the PCM with the DLC. It is only responsible for communication between the PCM and the WDS. On certain engine versions, a programming line (ACP bus) is also provided.

ISO 9141 bus

Click to resize E51365

Item
Part Number
Description
1
-
ISO 9141 bus
2
-
DLC
3
-
Generic Electronic Module (GEM)
4
-
Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) module or Automatic Temperature Control (ATC) module
5
-
Instrument cluster
6
-
Restraints Control Module (RCM)
7
-
Audio unit or audio/navigation system
8
-
Transmission Control Module (TCM)
9
-
High intensity discharge headlamp (right-hand and left-hand side)
10
-
ABS module or ESP module
11
-
Fuel fired booster heater

The modules connected to the ISO 9141 bus depend upon the equipment level of the vehicle. The ISO 9141 bus is used solely for reading out the fault memories of the modules connected to the data bus.

The ISO 9141 bus connects the various modules to the WDS via the DLC.

CAN bus - vehicles built up to 06/2003

Click to resize E51362

Item
Part Number
Description
1
-
High-speed CAN bus
2
-
Terminating resistors
3
-
DLC
4
-
PCM
5
-
Injector Driver Module (IDM)
6
-
Fuel injection pump
7
-
TCM
8
-
Instrument cluster
9
-
Yaw rate sensor
10
-
Steering wheel rotation sensor
11
-
Electronic stability program module
12
-
EATC module or ATC module

Vehicles built up to 06/2003 have only one CAN bus. This is designated as high-speed CAN bus (HS CAN). The modules exchange data with one another via this HS CAN bus. The modules connected to the HS CAN bus depend upon the equipment level of the vehicle.

One 120 Ohm terminating resistor is installed in the PCM and in the instrument cluster respectively. These terminating resistors are used for suppression of the data bus system. In order to be able to ensure correct functioning of the data bus system, the modules must always be connected with an integral terminating resistor.

CAN bus - vehicles built from 06/2003

Item
Part Number
Description
1
-
Mid-speed CAN bus
2
-
High-speed CAN bus
3
-
Terminating resistors
4
-
DLC
5
-
EATC module or ATC module
6
-
PCM
7
-
TCM
8
-
Fuel injection pump
9
-
ABS module or ESP module
10
-
Instrument cluster
11
-
Yaw rate sensor
12
-
Steering wheel rotation sensor
13
-
Electrical actuator, turbocharger guide vane adjustment
14
-
GEM
15
-
Compact Disc (CD) changer
16
-
Navigation module
17
-
Touchscreen
18
-
Audio unit
19
-
Audio system module
20
-
Bluetooth voice control module

Due to the increased number of modules and the resulting ever-increasing data transmission, a second CAN bus (mid-speed CAN bus (MS CAN)) is used in vehicles built from 06/2003. This operates at a lower speed and is mainly used for communication relating to the convenience electronics.

A gateway (portal) is used in order to enable data exchange between the HS CAN bus and the MS CAN bus. The gateway serves as interface between the two CAN data bus systems and is installed in the air-conditioning module.

The modules connected to the two CAN data bus systems depend upon the equipment level of the vehicle.

One 120 Ohm terminating resistor of the HS CAN bus is installed in the PCM and in the instrument cluster respectively.

One 120 Ohm terminating resistor of the MS CAN bus is installed in the GEM and in the EATC module or ATC module respectively.

These terminating resistors are used for suppression of the data bus system. In order to be able to ensure correct functioning of the data bus system, the modules must always be connected with an integral terminating resistor.

[[Category:Mondeo_Mk3]]
[[Category:Focus_Mk2]]
[[Category:Focus_Mk3]]

Screen Flicker Problems, Denso Nav Systems

2011-11-27T20:08:29Z

Monkeyra:

If you have Bluetooth/ Voice Control as an option on your MK3 Mondeo or MK2/ MK3 Focus there may be times when you switch on the system that the screen flickers, you get green & black lines and the unit keeps cycling between the Ford startup screen and radio etc etc... Read on....

After a flat battery or by jump starting the car the BT/VRM module seems to have a hissy fit and the data within corrupts.

This causes a signal hiccup on the CANBUS, leading to the following, but not exhaustive Touchscreen issues..

Flickering
Random screen shots
Green/ Black Lines across screen
Incorrect resolution on all colors.

By unplugging the BT/VRM module, this should fix the problem.

To fix it, the BT/RM module needs to be wiped and reconfigured with IDS. The simplest and easiest way to do this, if possible, is to borrow a known working module and fit to the car before starting a fresh IDS session.

The network test that is run when the program launches 'clones' all the information from each module fitted to the car.

Once that is done, using 'Programmable Module Installation' this information is then uploaded to the faulty unit when prompted to do so. In this case, we know that the unit being fitted is having issues, so IDS will erase all the data on it and upload fresh instructions, including all voice commands in the chosen language as well as protocols for the Bluetooth etc.

The whole process takes just over an hour to complete.

Once configured, the VIN number needs to be uploaded, the ignition cycled and the job is finished.

Whats even more annoying is that if you took this information to a Ford Dealer they probably wouldnt understand it, or in Sacha's case, try to convince you that they need the car for 4 hours (@£90 per hour) or insist that you need a new touchscreen or DVD ROM drive.

So, if you do experience issues, then you can contact me and come and see me, or we can meet up. Posting the unit out is also an option as i can just upload your chassis number and post it back.

Hope this helps someone!

Alex

http://www.talkford.com/user/189-l11xxy/

[[Category:Mondeo_Mk3]]
[[Category:Focus_Mk3]]
[[Category:Focus_Mk2]]

Window Wiper Stalk Installation

2011-11-27T20:05:40Z

Monkeyra: Created page with "The wiper stalk has 6 settings for the intermittent setting from 1 at around 3 seconds to 6 at about 15 seconds between wipes. The stalk comes out of most models except the LX. M..."

The wiper stalk has 6 settings for the intermittent setting from 1 at around 3 seconds to 6 at about 15 seconds between wipes. The stalk comes out of most models except the LX. Mine came out of a Ghia estate which has the rear wiper switch on the end of the stalk but it will still work if you have the saloon model, just may look a bit silly thats all. I paid NZD$17 for mine at the general scrappy which is around £6-7

1: Remove the 2 screws holding the upper panel of the steering column on. It is easiest if you pull the column all the way down and out. It is possible to do the mod without removing the lower column panel but it is fiddly and visibility is limited so I removed the lower panel. There are 3 screws holding this panel on; 2 up by the steering wheel and one down the end of the panel. Phillips screwdriver is what you need and a bit of welly as they may be a bit gummy.

2: Remove the white connector by pushing the tab at the base of the connector and then it just pivots out. Then push the tab at the top of the snot-green coloured part of the stalk. Then it just slides out. Simple as that.

3: To put the new stalk in, just do the reverse procedure. Make sure the stalk and connector clicks into place. Screw the panels back on and you're done.

[[Category:Mondeo_Mk2]]

Fuel Pump Change TDCi

2011-11-27T20:01:53Z

Monkeyra: Created page with "'''How to change the fuel pump on a Mondeo Mk3 TDCi''' WHEN THE FUEL PUMP BREAKS UP EVERYTHING NEEDS TO BE FULLY FLUSHED (Tank,Low pressure lines,new filter,pipes from filter to..."

'''How to change the fuel pump on a Mondeo Mk3 TDCi'''

WHEN THE FUEL PUMP BREAKS UP EVERYTHING NEEDS TO BE FULLY FLUSHED
(Tank,Low pressure lines,new filter,pipes from filter to pump,from pump to injectors (The common rail bar is the worst part to clean!)

tools.
10mm socket
17mm spanner
13mm socket
tdci fuel pump timing sprocket (plastic hold for timing sprocket)
and other good selection of tools.
Laser injector socket

I was replacing injectors at the same time so I will add this...

make sure system has lost all pressure...

Any work on the injection system is dangerous so make sure you understand this (before carrying out any work) (I will not be held responsible for your injury)

First remove the 4 brass injector pipes leading to the injectors a 17mm spanner is the tool for this, Then remove the leak off pipes which you can use a small flat blade to prise them off, then unplug the 4 gray injector electrical plugs, remove the oil seals from the injectors these lift up with a flat blade screw driver. then lower the Laser injector socket around the injector simply undo then remove..

Next remove the egr valve 2 8mm bolts and a jubly clip and vac line, then undo all 10mm bolts around intake manifold make sure you take care when removing these that none shear off....

once this is out the way remove the common rail after undoing the 17mm nut off the bottom there are 3 13mm bolts holding this.

Now remove the last brass pipe from the fuel pump 17mm again. then remove the low pressure lines the return simply unclips from the fuel pump and the main feed is held at the bottom with a 17mm nut. these pipes have a 10mm nut holding them in place.

now remove 1 10mm bolt holding power steering tank (Pulls out the way) and remove 2 10mm bolts holding header tank (Pulls out the way) and this will make access easy remove the engine mount damper 2 10mm bolts.

Remove the 2 wiring plugs going to the fuel pump

remove the fuel pump access cover there is a tools for this in the Laser timing tool kit

I jacked up the O/S and put it in 4th gear now you can spin the drivers wheel, the hole in the timing spocket needs to be at 1 O'Clock once In the correct place. the car can be lowered down.

Now insert the plastic timing tool into the access hole. once in place you will see 3 small holes these are for the hidden torx bolts (T45) the torx bit comes in the Laser timing kit.

(This was the worst part for me) as I released 2 of the torx bolts fine and the bottom one was a pain you have to cut about 1.5cm off the tool to make it fit between the body and the engine. On mine I had to grind down the Torx splines due to it not locating correctly(YOU MAY NOT NEED TO DO THIS ON YOURS).

once all 3 torx bolts are loose you can release the 2 10mm bolts to the right on the fuel pump on the bracket

Remove to 4 10mm timing chain sprocket bolts once removed the fuel pump will pull away from the engine.

Putting it all back together is the same as removal.

*Few things to remember when taking this job on*
-make sure everything is kept clean anything in the fuel tank/lines will take the injectors out in a second.
-only use ford fuel filters 2 micron
-you will need to steam clean the tank and get a magnet around it to pick up swarf
-you need a new fuel pump gasket
-you will need to prime all the fuel lines when you fill the tank up
-this is a big job when done correctly so don't take short cuts
-make sure swarf is in no parts of the system including the common rail pressure bar
-you will need the laser injector socket and timing kit to carry out this job
-lots of brake cleaner for metal/platic pipes think I used 12 tins
-injectors need recoding
-make sure none of the pipes are leaking as this will cause problems

[[category:Mondeo_Mk3]]

Engine over revving

2011-11-27T19:54:40Z

Monkeyra: Created page with "My Mk3 Facelift Ghia X is coming up 6 years old and has been so reliable. That was until recently. I noticed when I changed gear, or travelled slowly in traffic, the engine revs ..."

My Mk3 Facelift Ghia X is coming up 6 years old and has been so reliable. That was until recently. I noticed when I changed gear, or travelled slowly in traffic, the engine revs would climb up to about 3000 the minute the load was off the engine, only to fall when I braked and the car came to a stop. I initially thought it was the idle control valve and replaced it with no effect. I'm lucky I have Tremona garage just a few miles away, and Richard is a genius. It turned out to be the Crankcase breather hose under the inlet manifold. Richard has dexterous hands and fingers and was able to replace it without removing the inlet manifold. Job done and my Ghia X is running sweet again.

[[File:Crankcase_breather_hose.jpg‎]]

[[Category:Mondeo_Mk3]]

Door Handle Fix

2011-11-27T16:43:14Z

Monkeyra:

{{note|'''The Ford Ka hit our roads in 1996, and and it's currently on its second revision which was launched in 2008.'''<br>
'''For more information, visit the Ford Ka forum on [http://www.talkford.com/forum/810-ford-ka-forums-owners-club/ TalkFord.com], the largest and most comprehensive Ford Ka website in the UK.'''}}

----

{{Infobox
|name = Infobox Template
|bodystyle = float:right; valign:middle;
|image = [[File:Fordwiki infobox.png]]
|imagestyle =
|headerstyle = background:#ccf;
|labelstyle = background:#ddf;
|datastyle = text-align:right;
|header1 =
|label1 = Ford Model:
|data1 = '''Ka'''
|header2 =
|label2 = Petrol/Diesel:
|data2 = '''Petrol'''
|header3 =
|label3 = Estimated Cost:
|data3 = '''N/A'''
|header4 =
|label4 = Difficulty?
|data4 = '''Medium'''
|label5 = How long does this take?
|data5 = '''2 hours'''
}}

'''Ford Ka - Fixing a broken outside door handle (handle will not open door)'''

Basically the plastic handle is attached to the lock mechanism via a metal rod, the plastic linkage on the back of the door handle gets broken and can no longer open the door. I was quoted £120 to fix this at the dealers, so thought I would have a go myself. Some people had written guides about removing the door trim, but nobody had actually done a guide about fixing the door handle problem start to finish.

'''Tools Required'''

Screwdriver (philips star and flat heads)

Drill (4 / 4.5 mm metalwork drill bit)

Stanley Knife

2x 4mm rivets and a rivet gun (or self tapping screws)

silicone sealant (optional)

'''Step 1 : Remove door card and skin'''

Pop out electric window control with a flat screwdriver and disconnect from cable. Removed screw now visible in the hole.

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_1.jpg‎]]

Remove the other 3 screws from the door card..

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_2.jpg‎]]

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_3.jpg‎]]

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_4.jpg‎]]

Door card can now be removed, its held on with plastic clips that should pop off..

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_5.jpg‎]]

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_6.jpg‎]]

Now peel back the skin behind the handle area..

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_7.jpg‎]]

You should now be able to see the severity panel that protects the lock area, its riveted to the door in two places (see third pic top and bottom) and sealed with silicone (black in picture) at the side next to the door skin.

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_8.jpg‎]]

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_9.jpg‎]]

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_10.jpg‎]]

'''Step 2 : Remove security panel'''

Both rivets need drilled out, I used a 4.5mm drill bit. Then the silicone seal needs separated from the panel with a stanley knife.

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_11.jpg‎]]

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_12.jpg‎]]

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_13.jpg‎]]

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_14.jpg‎]]

'''Step 3 : Fit new handle and reconnect to lock mechanism'''

Unscrew old handle (you can see the linkage that is broken on the old handle). Attach linkage and screw in new handle.

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_15.jpg‎]]

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_16.jpg‎]]

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_17.jpg‎]]

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_18.jpg‎]]

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_19.jpg‎]]

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_20.jpg‎]]

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_21.jpg‎]]

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_22.jpg‎]]

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_23.jpg‎]]

'''Step 4 : Re-rivet and seal security panel and reattach door card'''

Re-rivet security panel to door using 4mm rivet (An alternative would be to attach using self tapping screws). Then reseal (this step could be skipped if necessary, but probably best to do it) using silicone sealant. Then reattach door card using the clips and 4 screws. Reconnect electric window controls and pop back in.

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_24.jpg‎]]

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_25.jpg‎]]

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_26.jpg‎]]

[[File:Ka_door_handle_fix_27.jpg‎]]

[[category:Ka_Mk1]]